Scallop baffle?

Frosteh · 06:20 AM

Is there a point to scalloping the subwoofer baffle? By scallop I mean put a chamfer on the inside of the driver cutout on the baffle to allow it to breathe. I know this has a decent effect at mid and high frequencies, but does it affect subs? My baffle is 1" thick.

SirByrd · 29th January 2012, 06:31 AM

Generally it is a good idea, but it depends on the design of the basket and the thickness of the baffle.
You're talking about chamfering the driver cutout facing the inside of the enclosure, and drivers that are being front or flush mounted, right?

Frosteh · 29th January 2012, 06:32 AM

Indeed I am. I'm trying to decide whether or not it's worth getting out the rasp and filing away some mdf in the morning.

SirByrd · 29th January 2012, 06:34 AM

Easier to use a router with a rounding or chamfer bit on it. Takes about 30 seconds.

Frosteh · 29th January 2012, 06:36 AM

Cabinets are already glued together, unfortunately. And I don't have an upside down chamfer bit (nor do I really want to get out the router again). I'm fine with filing away at it for a bit if it will make a difference.

SirByrd · 29th January 2012, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frosteh

Cabinets are already glued together, unfortunately. And I don't have an upside down chamfer bit (nor do I really want to get out the router again). I'm fine with filing away at it for a bit if it will make a difference.

Generally I don't bother with speakers larger than 6.5" or so. What drivers are you using?

It should make a bit of difference, though I'm not sure what exactly it would do. The speaker may behave as if it is in a smaller cabinet if there is more resistance to airflow. But that is just conjecture...

SirByrd · 29th January 2012, 06:51 AM

You are using Dayton Reference subs? (did some digging

) I wouldn't bother in that case, but if you had a sub like pictured below, I would.

SirByrd · 29th January 2012, 06:52 AM

Another option would be to simply rear mount them. That would give the maximum airflow, but then you have to deal with the front edge, kind of ugly as is, but I doubt it would negatively effect a subwoofer system.

29th January 2012, 06:15 AM	#1
Frosteh diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Kirkland, WA	Scallop baffle? Is there a point to scalloping the subwoofer baffle? By scallop I mean put a chamfer on the inside of the driver cutout on the baffle to allow it to breathe. I know this has a decent effect at mid and high frequencies, but does it affect subs? My baffle is 1" thick. Last edited by Frosteh; 29th January 2012 at 06:20 AM.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Baffle size and shape -> baffle step	saschagabor	Multi-Way	1	14th December 2010 10:45 AM
Chill-Baffle speaker (L-baffle design)	fedde	Full Range	7	26th September 2010 12:38 PM
Need help designing a new cabinet/baffle with proper driver to baffle placement.	Big_Bill	Multi-Way	17	16th June 2010 04:34 AM
Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker)	tktran	Multi-Way	13	29th November 2004 11:09 PM
Edge diffraction: large, rounded baffle, or narrow square baffle	fortyquid	Multi-Way	12	12th January 2004 03:43 AM

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

29th January 2012, 06:31 AM	#2
SirByrd diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Seattle, WA	Generally it is a good idea, but it depends on the design of the basket and the thickness of the baffle. You're talking about chamfering the driver cutout facing the inside of the enclosure, and drivers that are being front or flush mounted, right?

29th January 2012, 06:32 AM	#3
Frosteh diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Kirkland, WA	Indeed I am. I'm trying to decide whether or not it's worth getting out the rasp and filing away some mdf in the morning.

29th January 2012, 06:34 AM	#4
SirByrd diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Seattle, WA	Easier to use a router with a rounding or chamfer bit on it. Takes about 30 seconds.

29th January 2012, 06:36 AM	#5
Frosteh diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Kirkland, WA	Cabinets are already glued together, unfortunately. And I don't have an upside down chamfer bit (nor do I really want to get out the router again). I'm fine with filing away at it for a bit if it will make a difference.

29th January 2012, 06:51 AM	#7
SirByrd diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Seattle, WA	You are using Dayton Reference subs? (did some digging ) I wouldn't bother in that case, but if you had a sub like pictured below, I would.

29th January 2012, 06:52 AM	#8
SirByrd diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Seattle, WA	Another option would be to simply rear mount them. That would give the maximum airflow, but then you have to deal with the front edge, kind of ugly as is, but I doubt it would negatively effect a subwoofer system.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)