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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Doing an install in another home, Paradigm in-walls, not bad. But more very low bass would be nice.
Of course, there are many box subs out there to buy or construct. In this case, though, no good place to hide such or even to place it. Therefore, considering in-wall subs. Yes, I well know that's problematic. At least it's an outside wall, so the back is meshed and stuccoed and pretty rigid, leaving just the risk of the inside drywall buzzing. Supposing we accept that risk for reasons of aesthetics and space. What should we put in the wall? I calculate 2.7 cubic feet inside each stud (3.5"Dx14.5"Wx93"H), meaning >3 ft3 effective as there is fiberglass lining the whole thing. Ideas for 10" or even bigger shallow drivers? Anyone carry raw grilles besides Parts Express? Could this be ported somehow? (angled port? probably a nutty idea not feasible, but just thinking). Passive radiator? There are 3 stud spaces available all next to each other. In other words, 6 studs @ 16" center-to-center forming 5 tall cavities in the wall. The outer 2 have the C280 v2 in-walls; the inner 3 stud spaces could fit the woofers and look nice. Ideas? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Irving, TX
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Without budget constraints, this is the best in-wall subwoofer I have heard:
Fathom® IWS - JL Audio |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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WoofersEtc.com - 12TW5-3 - JL Audio 12" Single 3 ohms TW5 Thin-Line Subwoofer
The above requires 2.5 inches of mounting depth--yes, it is a "car sub" but if you use 6 of them, give them some PA power it should break the plaster board. There are less expensive versions from Rockford Fosgate, Pioneer, Kicker etc. On the topic of throwing around vast quantities of money.... SUNFIRE: SubRosa In-Wall Subwoofer - SRS-210W SYS |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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FYI: A DBA using 4 of the Peerless-MAC-SSW-P835028 drivers and a suitable LT and HPF to set the lower FR boundary:
b |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
...and the need to rip out all the drywall... probably put that out of reach.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
How can we resist? Or, should we wait until they achieve 20% "more information" |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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Ah, thanks, now that's interesting. But I should have specified that the woofers need to go at the bottom of the 3 stud cavities because the TV is above that. What happens in that case, if there are 3 of those each in the 3+ cubic feet?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Don't like putting subs in the attic?
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Los Angeles
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bump...any other candidates for possible drivers?
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