Isobaric - less then $20

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Good that you bought them, before they run out.

I would just build two of the boxes shown, you'll have more flexibility, E.g. stack them together, or set them in different parts of the room. I like the 9"width.

I'll use 1/2", found a sheet of Medex, one grade above MDF.


I Just bought 4 of these because of this thread, I would love to see someone design a TH for these, I saw the pictures posted of one using 2 of these, but maybe we can designate a thread for this on its own... The only TH I have built is JBells ss15, I have 4 of them, I would love to make some of these for smaller home parties.
 
Try neo's tapped horn, inquiring minds want to know! Does it need a high pass? I haven't gotten around to trying a TH yet... but it's too cold to spend time making sawdust in the garage up here.
Generally speaking I do use HPF, but this is not a very high power design in the first place so the suspension of the driver may be robust enough protection for those without throttle jockey syndrome.:D

Hi there ND: Can you supply the dimension for the "free" end of the mid board (the one directly behind the drivers) and also the mouth opening? You have supplied other dimensions from the bottom of the pictoral drawing or a string from the bottom (assuming 1/2" material?) Regards...Michael
Hi Michael,
All joints with the exception of the one at the mouth are 90°. The mouth opening is ~3", just a hair under because of the angle. I think you are asking about the 14 7/8" board, it is 9.75" from the bottom(inside) of the enclosure, all internal boards are 8" wide. If I am home tonight I will redraw the enclosure and cut sheet for an easier assembly and glue up. In doing this I will make the top and bottom the only 9" wide pieces.
 
I hope the new detailed plans are close to the first set. Odougbo never sits still when the speaker bench is empty.
 

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Yikes....I'm taking off tomorrow!! Pieces are cut, starting tonight.
Power wire right out the back?
Round over the edges inside?
  • I wouldn't take off work, however YMMV.
  • I'd probably come out with the wires below the mouth as it should always be accessible. I'd use some cheesy spring terminals and a BO$E logo in Sharpie right there. :D
  • The mouth is the only spot that might potentially benefit, I'd skip on the rounds at least until I'd tested. You should not have velocity problems with the internal path like with the small ports.
  • PE gave the 299-114 the nod as a "Tough little driver for compact subs", hopefully they know what they are talking about. :D
 
Hey Neo,

Any chance you'll share the hornresp data :treasure::p

:shutup: I won't comment... promise

later,
revb
Possibly/likely, but after Doug gets a good listen to it.

The bass is very strong with the PR box, I thought something was wrong with the bass when I hooked up the Fonkens........I had to reverse the leads to the sub.

The 10" PR is being kicked around with some good energy.

PE was telling the truth.
I'm interested in how the drivers hold up when not loaded by the port when you guys are pushing them hard. From your previous posts I'm guessing/hoping you run the drivers mono from an LFE/sub out, stereo bass would KILL them obviously.

NEO, If B1 sits behind S4, it needs to be 1/2" shorter to keep the 3-11/16" in the back.

Cough Cough.
Thanks for(attempting:p) double checking the numbers, really. :)
If you look at the first cut sheet you should see the difference has been adjusted for already.
 
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