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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
NL4 pins 1 are LF, + should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box. Pins 2 are HF, + should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box. There are some variations in NL4 wiring, the above is the JBL SRX series standard. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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"Positive voltage on the 1/4" tip should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box."
Check! Thanks! Now i'm confused. Are the NL4 marked 1/2/3/4 or 1-/1+/2-/2+ ?? I'm going to have to go to Guitar Center or someplace like that to get an NL4 plug, as my sockets are wired and covered with several layers of shrink-wrap, and mounted. I'll get a numbered plug and use my meter... |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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One of the SpeakOn papers has the following information:
one NL8MPR socket low frequency pins 1+/1- low mid frequency pins 2+/2- high mid frequency pins 3+/3- high frequency pins 4+/4- Positive signal on speaker pin "+" produces positive waveform from driver (moves cone outwardly) "+" = In phase (high) "-" = Ground (out of phase, low) Lower numbers for lower frequencies.
__________________
Kevin |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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OK I found the markings on a plug, so with a meter I can easily find the associated wire from the jack now.
And + is also red for binding-post terminal strips? |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Toronto and Delray Beach, FL
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I use this switch for phase reversal testing on my giant OB. Not that I've ever been able to choose the right phase in my whole life. Got it for a school science project around 1949. Works good, always has. Center off. Great design, eh. C'mon, no laughing.
Ben great weather in Toronto
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Dennesen ESL tweets, Dayton-Wright ESL (110-3200Hz), mixed-bass Klipschorn w/param EQ plus giant OB using 1960's Stephens woofer HiFi aspirations since 1956 |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: was Chicago IL, now Long Beach CA
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Yes, they work better than most, and the DPDT is just what's called for. But the risk of damage is also great. A toggle is pretty well protected if I recess it. But I don't think I'm going to bother with any switches anyway. Instead I would probably use some Neutrik jacks with plugs wired in various ways.
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