I want high-amperage strong (no crappy automotive plastic bats, requires commercial-like durability) toggle switch for mounting in a steel panel on the back of a speaker.
I'd like some center-off DPDT (series/seperate/parallel) and also some two-throw DPDT (polarity reverse). I'd like 20 to 40 amp AC rating (higher is better).
Most important, they must not rattle !!! At all!
Any good links to big electronics catalogs online???
I'd like some center-off DPDT (series/seperate/parallel) and also some two-throw DPDT (polarity reverse). I'd like 20 to 40 amp AC rating (higher is better).
Most important, they must not rattle !!! At all!
Any good links to big electronics catalogs online???
i had the same isue a while ago,this was for a sub wich could be used with or without bild in crossover.
i ordered a switch ,but the switch only work when pressed on(it wouldn't stick
)
i ended up using switching jacks.
an other option was using banana plugs and patch bridges.
you could reces them.
i ordered a switch ,but the switch only work when pressed on(it wouldn't stick
)i ended up using switching jacks.
an other option was using banana plugs and patch bridges.
you could reces them.
Is this for PA? I think switches on the back of a PA cab are a disaster waiting to happen!
Switches are likely to be expensive (and easy to tamper with). One flick at the wrong time could be an expensive short circuit!
How about using a assortment of speakon 4 way sockets and plugs. They are built for the job, and with a bit of creative thought you could achieve most of the configurations you want.
Why would you want to switch the phase? It is probably easier to do that at the amplifier input.
Sketched out a start, Series connection seems more problematic unless you use a custom speaker lead/plug - Maybe a short patch lead would do the job
Patch leads are also often used to sort out phasing issues.
Switches are likely to be expensive (and easy to tamper with). One flick at the wrong time could be an expensive short circuit!
How about using a assortment of speakon 4 way sockets and plugs. They are built for the job, and with a bit of creative thought you could achieve most of the configurations you want.
Why would you want to switch the phase? It is probably easier to do that at the amplifier input.
Sketched out a start, Series connection seems more problematic unless you use a custom speaker lead/plug - Maybe a short patch lead would do the job
Patch leads are also often used to sort out phasing issues.
Attachments
@ cyclecamper
Try here
Center off DPDT
Your Search Results | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Double Pole, Double Throw, DPDT
Your Search Results | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Select your country or region Farnell / Electronic Component Distributors / Suppliers / Electronics, Electrical Parts, Electrical Components and Wholesale Electronics.
Try here
Center off DPDT
Your Search Results | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Double Pole, Double Throw, DPDT
Your Search Results | Farnell United Kingdom | Results
Select your country or region Farnell / Electronic Component Distributors / Suppliers / Electronics, Electrical Parts, Electrical Components and Wholesale Electronics.
I will run all spekaer terminals to the NL4 and then I can wire NL4 plugs internally to determine whether the 1/4" jacks drive the speakers in parallel or series.
What's the standard for the 1/4" jack. With + on the tip, should the cone move in or out?
What's the standard for wiring the NL4 for two drivers (mostly interested in polarity)? Wire one driver to which pins, other to which, and which way should the cone move with + on which...
What's the standard for the 1/4" jack. With + on the tip, should the cone move in or out?
What's the standard for wiring the NL4 for two drivers (mostly interested in polarity)? Wire one driver to which pins, other to which, and which way should the cone move with + on which...
Positive voltage on the 1/4" tip should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box.
NL4 pins 1 are LF, + should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box.
Pins 2 are HF, + should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box.
There are some variations in NL4 wiring, the above is the JBL SRX series standard.
"Positive voltage on the 1/4" tip should move the cone forward (away from the magnet) on a standard front loaded box."
Check! Thanks!
Now i'm confused. Are the NL4 marked 1/2/3/4 or 1-/1+/2-/2+ ?? I'm going to have to go to Guitar Center or someplace like that to get an NL4 plug, as my sockets are wired and covered with several layers of shrink-wrap, and mounted. I'll get a numbered plug and use my meter...
Check! Thanks!
Now i'm confused. Are the NL4 marked 1/2/3/4 or 1-/1+/2-/2+ ?? I'm going to have to go to Guitar Center or someplace like that to get an NL4 plug, as my sockets are wired and covered with several layers of shrink-wrap, and mounted. I'll get a numbered plug and use my meter...
One of the SpeakOn papers has the following information:
one NL8MPR socket
low frequency pins 1+/1-
low mid frequency pins 2+/2-
high mid frequency pins 3+/3-
high frequency pins 4+/4-
Positive signal on speaker pin "+" produces positive waveform
from driver (moves cone outwardly)
"+" = In phase (high) "-" = Ground (out of phase, low)
Lower numbers for lower frequencies.
one NL8MPR socket
low frequency pins 1+/1-
low mid frequency pins 2+/2-
high mid frequency pins 3+/3-
high frequency pins 4+/4-
Positive signal on speaker pin "+" produces positive waveform
from driver (moves cone outwardly)
"+" = In phase (high) "-" = Ground (out of phase, low)
Lower numbers for lower frequencies.
I use this switch for phase reversal testing on my giant OB. Not that I've ever been able to choose the right phase in my whole life. Got it for a school science project around 1949. Works good, always has. Center off. Great design, eh. C'mon, no laughing.
Ben
great weather in Toronto
Ben
great weather in Toronto
Attachments
Yes, they work better than most, and the DPDT is just what's called for. But the risk of damage is also great. A toggle is pretty well protected if I recess it. But I don't think I'm going to bother with any switches anyway. Instead I would probably use some Neutrik jacks with plugs wired in various ways.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.