First time subwoofer builder

[broz]

Hi, well I'm looking to build my first subwoofer.

This sub will be used for only music. I'm a poor college kid, so I'm looking for this build to be pretty cheap but to have a good kick in my room. The room is roughly 12x12.

I have seen a few decent looking drivers from Dayton audio. If someone could give me quite a bit of help in choosing a driver/drivers, amp and enclosure ideas it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[weltersys]

Originally Posted by broz

Hi, well I'm looking to build my first subwoofer.

This sub will be used for only music. I'm a poor college kid, so I'm looking for this build to be pretty cheap but to have a good kick in my room. The room is roughly 12x12.

I have seen a few decent looking drivers from Dayton audio. If someone could give me quite a bit of help in choosing a driver/drivers, amp and enclosure ideas it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

First identify "good kick", Datsik, or Billy Cobham's kick could both be described as "good".

Then, identify "pretty cheap".

Also, what top cabinets are the subs going to keep up with, computer speakers or floor standers require a different approach.

Depending how poor you are, and where you are, there are lots of finds on Craigslist that could save $$ and allow you to listen first to hear if they are satisfying your needs.

I have sold some kickin' stuff on Craigs list for less than the cost of the materials.

Art

[badman]

Do you live at the parent's house? Could you install in-wall?

My recommendation is usually for a quad of zalytron's CP1200 woofer ($20 each on clearance) with push-pull mounting in a pair of offset manifolds, for a small room like yours.

But first we must know if you could build such a thing into the walls!

[mdocod]

For dirt cheap it's hard to beat a driver like this: Dayton Audio SD315A-88 12" DVC Subwoofer 295-488

In a 12x12 room that will play respectably loud. The dampening characteristics of that driver are also apt to deliver a surprisingly controlled clean performance, normally expected of only more expensive drivers.

If you listen to "normal" music, give it 2-3ft^2 with a vent or passive radiator tuned to ~25-35hz.

If you listen to electronic music with frequent bass in the 20-40hz range, give it 4-6ft^3 and tune to 20-25hz.

Use large port size to reduce/eliminate port noise. Usually best to build the port into the box as a sort of baffle like construction to maximize port cross section. Use a router to flare the port opening to further reduce port noise.

I don't suggest a sealed box for this driver.

[tb46]

Hi,

Take a look at all the sales that are currently on Parts Express, e.g.: Dayton SUB-100 10" 125 Watt Powered Subwoofer 300-633

Regards,

[lduarte1973]

Originally Posted by tb46

Hi,

Take a look at all the sales that are currently on Parts Express, e.g.: Dayton SUB-100 10" 125 Watt Powered Subwoofer 300-633

Regards,

that´s a super price and for music 100w sub is more than enough.

[revboden]

Originally Posted by mdocod

For dirt cheap it's hard to beat a driver like this: Dayton Audio SD315A-88 12" DVC Subwoofer 295-488

In a 12x12 room that will play respectably loud. The dampening characteristics of that driver are also apt to deliver a surprisingly controlled clean performance, normally expected of only more expensive drivers.

If you listen to "normal" music, give it 2-3ft^2 with a vent or passive radiator tuned to ~25-35hz.

If you listen to electronic music with frequent bass in the 20-40hz range, give it 4-6ft^3 and tune to 20-25hz.

Use large port size to reduce/eliminate port noise. Usually best to build the port into the box as a sort of baffle like construction to maximize port cross section. Use a router to flare the port opening to further reduce port noise.

I don't suggest a sealed box for this driver.

+1

I have one out in my shop in a 4ft^3 enclosure tuned to 20Hz and it bumps along nicely with a Dayton Audio SA100.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-802

[head_unit]

Originally Posted by lduarte1973

...for music 100w sub is more than enough.

Heh, depends how LOUD you want to crank it. And college students ALWAYS want to crank it.

100W is only enough if the sub cabinet is not tiny. Otherwise the 100W will clip like a gas-powered hedge trimmer.

OP, you need to tell us how big a cabinet you can tolerate, and if you have the possibility to make a simple cabinet yourself, or even a complex folded horn.

You should really read Vance Dickason's Loudspeaker Cookbook, it is an information packed classic, so order that from AudioXpress.com. You'll get a lot of ideas, including what is good to stuff the cabinet with.

But you also need to tell us a budget. Sometimes with subs it is indeed easier to buy or buy used.

[broz]

Well,
The sub enclosure can be as large as 4 x 6ft.

Im pretty sure I could make a complex box, I have plenty of tools around and
have done some carpentry.
Im looking to spend around 250 max for the set-up.

This sub will keeping up with a pair of polk monitor 60's.

Thanks again for all the help

[bjorno]

Originally Posted by broz

Well,
The sub enclosure can be as large as 4 x 6ft.

Im pretty sure I could make a complex box, I have plenty of tools around and
have done some carpentry.
Im looking to spend around 250 max for the set-up.

This sub will keeping up with a pair of polk monitor 60's.

Thanks again for all the help

Hi broz,

My suggestion is a 120L=~4.23cu.ft T-TQWT f-3dB= 16Hz- to ~50Hz = max rec. fh when using your polk monitor 60's and if you buy this driver:

Dayton Audio TIT320C-4 12" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-404

and the amp suggested by revboden:

Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Amplifier 300-802

Corner/near corner placed this sub-amp-combo will easily exceed THX SPL

b: