Tang Band Tang Band W8Q-1071F 8 X 12 box reccomendation - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 9th December 2011, 02:16 PM   #11
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Hi permo,

Looks like bjorno's design from Post #3 will work well.

There are a few small errors in the lower right hand corner of the picture: S1 (the opening close to the drivers) should be S4, and S4 (the close end of the duct inside the box) should be S1; in general, all the S's refer to the cross-sectional areas of the tube (or duct): S2 is on the side of the drivers (pick the middle between the two drivers) pointing towards the closed internal duct, and S3 is on the side of the drivers (again, in the middle between the drivers) pointing towards the mouth. S1 is the throat (close end in this case), and S4 is the mouth (opening close to the drivers). All the L's (e.g.: L12) refer to the distances between the S's.

I highly recommend you spend some time in Hornresp, there are a number of good tutorials on the web.

Regards,
__________________
Oliver
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 02:28 PM   #12
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
Hi permo,

Looks like bjorno's design from Post #3 will work well.
I highly recommend you spend some time in Hornresp, there are a number of good tutorials on the web.

Regards,

I have spent the better part of the last month in horn response and have went through numerous tutorials. I think my problem is understanding the different types of horns and converting the numbers to an acutal box.

I can make a simple tapped horn fairly easily in hornresp, but I don't understand the difference between the designs and how hornresp is doing what it does.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 02:45 PM   #13
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jacobsmountain
Send a message via MSN to bjorno
Hi,

First: tb46

Quote:
There are a few small errors in the lower right hand corner of the picture:
Quite correct: I seem to do this all the time,Thanks Oliver!

Quote:
Originally Posted by permo View Post
...but my brain can't quite wrap itself around the concept well enough yet...
If you are not in a hurry we can help you to sort out concept issues...

Submitting a picture revision of what Oliver have noticed here-above:

b


PS: The important distance here is L23 but L12 can be slightly off easily to correct with the necessary needed damping material. This can be shown in simulations, i.e. by using MJK:s or the AKAbak program.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2xTB-W8Q-1071F_T-TQWT-picture-rev.JPG (46.3 KB, 589 views)

Last edited by bjorno; 9th December 2011 at 02:59 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 02:54 PM   #14
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Hi bjorno,

You are welcome, you put so much work into these designs, and help so many builders, you deserve a little help every now and then. :-)

Regards,
__________________
Oliver
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 03:02 PM   #15
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Jacobsmountain
Send a message via MSN to bjorno
Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
Hi bjorno,

You are welcome, you put so much work into these designs, and help so many builders, you deserve a little help every now and then. :-)

Regards,
Thank you Oliver,I really appreciate your help ....

b
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 06:14 PM   #16
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
I have all the time in the world, I am doing this project as a side project related to a larger one. I am finishing my basement and this is a great chance to integrate the 7.1 system into the room.

I appreciate the help so much. Is there two openings or just the one by S1? How much space do I need between the internal baffles/dividers and the adjecent outer walls?

The lid is actually part of the enclosure wall, but removable to give driver access I assume?

Last edited by permo; 9th December 2011 at 06:17 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2011, 11:07 PM   #17
diyAudio Member
 
revboden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Movies you say, my specialty I like those two drivers in a 4ft^3 ported box tuned to 25Hz with a 3" x 10" slot port 27.6" long. pic below. This design would let you upgrade to a 500w amp and have reference spec.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg tbw8q.JPG (182.4 KB, 569 views)
File Type: jpg tbw8q2.JPG (193.3 KB, 533 views)

Last edited by revboden; 9th December 2011 at 11:22 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2011, 12:56 PM   #18
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Still trying to put a cut sheet and dimensions together for the horn. I have some questions. I totally understand S1, S2, L12, L23..etc..etc.. here are my questions

1. Does each horn segment have to be a certain internal volume or am I more concerned about hitting my S and L variables appropriately?

2. How big/long do I make the opening?

I am starting to wonder if the lighbulb is ever going to get lit for me, regarding these horns!
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2011, 01:47 PM   #19
mdocod is offline mdocod  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Black Forest, CO
Send a message via AIM to mdocod
I just started playing with hornresp myself tonight...

In one of the guides I was reading, S2 can be as small as 1/4 the Sd of the driver, but many drivers will work better with this dimension being larger. This is the "throat" or compression area so it's fairly important that this not be any larger than the Sd from my understanding (I could be wrong on this so someone feel free to chime in). It's also important not to go smaller than 1/4Sd as I guess that can cause problems.?

The same guide said that a good starting ballpark for S4 is driver Sd x 2 but this may change as you optimize the simulation.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th December 2011, 02:51 PM   #20
mdocod is offline mdocod  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Black Forest, CO
Send a message via AIM to mdocod
After simming your driver in hornresp awhile, I'm convinced that this horn loading stuff is a lot more hype than anything. The best arrangement I could come up with produced similar efficiency and loading characteristics as the 6th order bandpass box I suggested above, however, the box would be nearly twice the size, and perform ~3db worse in maximum output compared to the 6th order bandpass configuration.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tang Band W8Q-1071F sealed box help? droidsocket Subwoofers 3 30th March 2010 10:14 AM
Tang Band W3-593SF vs. Tang Band W3-926SD Zaputh Full Range 17 5th June 2009 11:37 PM
Questions about the Tang Band W8Q-1071F 8"x12" Subwoofer MyNameIsJake Subwoofers 4 26th January 2008 02:57 AM
8 x 12 Tang Band troystg Subwoofers 3 2nd February 2007 03:37 AM
Tang Band W8-740C box design help manxam Multi-Way 4 25th February 2004 04:09 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:13 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2