|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#101 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
|
Hi permo,
Nice. Must be fun to work in a shop like that. Do you have a drawing for the cut-out that you could post, and what kind of a gasket are you going to use to mount the drivers? Regards,
__________________
Oliver Last edited by tb46; 28th December 2011 at 01:49 PM. |
|
|
|
#102 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
What I have traditionally done for the gasket seal on the drivers, which has worked amazingly well for me, is to take a bead of hot glue around the backside of the driver frame and let it dry for a day. Then when you mount the driver it makes a rubber "gasket like" seal that is airtight and also makes the driver easily removable. However, I did buy some of the adhesive backed foam, and I may just go that route.
I just took the spec sheet for the driver, which has a series of measurements on it, and drew a template out on paper and transfered it to the panel. I can "digitize" it later tonight. I am planning on getting everything installed tonight except for the two removable panels. |
|
|
|
#103 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
|
Hi permo,
I like the hot glue trick, will have to try that. 1 1/2" x 8 5/8" does make for one stout board, doesn't it? Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
|
|
|
#104 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
Quote:
It is amazingly stout and I am so glad we went that route with it. I found out last night that the hydro press was set at 6000 PSI to sandwhich the boards together. We actually cut them big, sandwhiched them together and then cut them to length and width so they are perfect. It acts as one large thick board. Actually, after seeing how robust and tight the entire build is, I am thinking that there won't be need for much bracing. Near the drivers and I will put some reflectors in...that might be it. We are also planning on finishing this with a red oak veneer. the final product should be beautiful! I am contemplating grill options for the port opening. I have two little girls and I can see them putting crayons etc..etc.. in there! The luxury I have is that my theater room is months away from being completed so I can take my time on this project and make it perfect. Last edited by permo; 28th December 2011 at 02:27 PM. |
|
|
|
|
#105 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
Looking good!! Used dremel circle attachment to cut exact hole for S4, we measured and we are off of perfect square by 1/64 of 1 inch. I would say it is perfection. We have the front and rear panels temporarily in place, deciding what medium to use to seal them and yet make them removable.
|
|
|
|
#106 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
|
Hi permo,
Looks like you're making good progress. :-) Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
|
|
|
#107 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
It's all thanks to you and Bjorno. I can say for sure, that I have never been involved in a project that has been so well planned and executed. Do you have any reccomendations for covering the circle opening?
|
|
|
|
#108 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
I am just trying to understand more of the functional principle of what I just built!
So the rear wave of the speakers travels back until it hits the S1 area and then is "re-routed" back through the horn until it realigns with the front sound wave and exits at the S4 opening? Tapped horns don't have a blocked path, so to speak, so I am wondering what the difference in design theory is. I have no doubt the speaker will work great, as I trust the design. I just want to understand why! |
|
|
|
#109 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
|
Hi permo,
I see the T-TQWT as a member of the family of tapped horns/pipes/tubes/ transmission lines that has been made accessible through the work of Joerg Panzer (AkAbak), David McBean (Hornresp) and Martin L. King (MathCad acoustical spreadsheets). The basic TQWT seems to go back to the Voight pipes (with a more normal horn taper). The initial idea of recirculating the sound from the rear of the diaphragm to the front by means of a tube seems to go back to the Jensen Transflex. Without simulation software the whole thing is almost impossible (I can attest to that from trying to recirculate transmission lines in the mid 1970s.); at the very least you end up with a lot of fire wood. I find the descriptions in Danley's white paper (and his patents) on tapped horn and synergy horn technologies is a good starting point. Hopefully bjorno can add some theory and experience here. Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
|
|
|
#110 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
thanks a million! I read the wite paper from Danley. The first few pages where a good read. Then they lost me.
Do you have any reccomendations for painting or covering the box? I think I am going to shy away from veneering it... |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Tang Band W8Q-1071F sealed box help? | droidsocket | Subwoofers | 3 | 30th March 2010 10:14 AM |
| Tang Band W3-593SF vs. Tang Band W3-926SD | Zaputh | Full Range | 17 | 5th June 2009 11:37 PM |
| Questions about the Tang Band W8Q-1071F 8"x12" Subwoofer | MyNameIsJake | Subwoofers | 4 | 26th January 2008 02:57 AM |
| 8 x 12 Tang Band | troystg | Subwoofers | 3 | 2nd February 2007 03:37 AM |
| Tang Band W8-740C box design help | manxam | Multi-Way | 4 | 25th February 2004 04:09 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |