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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I'm glad I asked - this forum really is a great place to share thoughts
![]() Thanks for all the advice, and the difference of opinion! Unfortunately my budget will currently stretch as far as screws, wood, cups of tea and a Sunday afternoon or 2. The real money is being spent on a centre speaker upgrade and a projector, hence I'm trying to make do with loft clutter for the sub idea. @ sreten Some interesting ideas there. I've used winISD to come up with the graphs and suggested box volumes. Using a smaller box like you say would be much more practical, but how would I tune it to a certain frequency? I don't see any option to do that in winISD so I guess I need something else. The other option of using a passive bass boost (I guess this means a HF attentuator?) is a good one, but wouldn't I need a scope and perhaps an SPL meter to tune this properly? (Neither of which I have) I do like the idea of being able to boost the LF and use a smaller box. But it sounds like I'll quickly get out of my depth. I have no idea how I'd upgrade my monobloc's feedback loop, or even if it has one - they're AB solid state I think. @ bjorno The sofa is a 3 seater, and there's a large void that runs up the back, so there's a decent volume in there. However the wooden lining is about 3mm thick so it will resonate like crazy! I thought I could stick some tar sheets/sound deadening to the inside if necessary. That image you posted looks interesting but is too small to see - have you got a link? @ Conrad That's out of my depth, sorry... @ Zero Would I definitely need a filter, given that the processor should only be sending LFE signals to the monobloc/s? I was hoping to avoid any additional complications like crossovers, phase, alignment and all those other things I don't fully understand! Thanks a lot for the graphs. They definitely look feasable. I could make a long flat box that would fit completely under one of the sofa's, and would go up into the lower void slightly. So it would be completely concealed. How much space I've got under there and if I could actually hit 120-150L I don't know yet. @ weltersys My thoughts entirely. Thanks. --- So I think we can agree there isn't really much point going to the extra effort to build a 4th order bandpass. I'll take a picture of the underside of the sofa tomorrow and post it so hopefully we can decide between gutting out the sofa's void so a ported box can be housed underneath, or just bolting up some wood and a woofer for smiles all round
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#12 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
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Originally Posted by judderod
Quote:
Quote:
![]() Quote:
![]() tune.gif Keep us posted & all the best with it. |
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#13 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
You just change the frequency in the tuning frequency box, the vent length is recalculated for the default / chosen diameter. rgds, sreten.
__________________
There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal
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Quote:
My PR comments were specific to modern low fs, low Vas subs. As most of us know, higher Xmax tends to drive down sensitivity and Vas and Fs due to the contstraints of building drivers (longer heavier coil)
__________________
I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned! |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I'd had a play with changing the tuning frequency, but I'm not entirely sure what I'm aiming for. Is the frequency the resonance of the enclosure?
Is it just a case of fiddling with the frequency and volume until the graph has a nice slope? @ bjorno I guess those pictures are just for looking nice... 374 thousand watts?!! On to some pictures... Underside ![]() Centre section ![]() Left lower void ![]() Up the back ![]() Back (angled) ![]() Looking at these pictures there's a huge volume inside the sofa. Only trouble is some walls are very flimsy, and some walls are just the sofa's foam. No way to calculate anything I guess. How about a big thick sheet that seals off the entire bottom section with the driver in the middle? |
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#17 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Box tuning is Fb (Frequency of box), or box resonance. The resonant frequency of the driver is Fc. An Fb below Fc will have less output compared to one above in a given size box. Too high an Fb in a small box, and the box will “boom” (a bump) at Fb. Too low an Fb, and the response will look more like a sealed box. You need to juggle box size, Fb, output level and excursion to see what the best compromise for your musical taste, available acceptable size, and your driver's parameters are. Since you have decided against EQ, "a nice slope" would be a flat response. Art Last edited by weltersys; 7th December 2011 at 07:09 PM. |
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#18 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I only read 37.5 W at 24 Hz. , You need to build at least 10000 T-TQWT's to withstand that power.![]() b
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Sorry Bjorno I thought you were being silly! I get it now. Thanks for the info.
And thanks for the help Art. I worked with the firgures but couldn't get the frequencies low enough. The room I'm working with seems to have a resonance peak at around 43Hz, and if I was going to the effort to build a proper sub, I'd want it to be fairly flat down to about 20Hz as I can easily hear that low. But it's not possible with the driver I have and the space I've got to work with. So I went for the sofa sub. LFE Sofa Enjoy
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
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