I took a look at the specs
500 watts bridged into 4 ohms and it is a 2 ohm stable amp. 170x2 channels into 4 ohms is the actual rating and it is class AB.
It is NOT stable into 2 ohms bridged! Rewire your sub for 4 ohms with the two 2 ohm coils in series for 4 ohms and report back.
It has a stock 40 amp fuse and you have a 100 amp alternator--you should be fine if it is running 4 ohms and your battery/wiring is decent.
Get a multimeter to read DC voltage, connect it to the battery and run it up. Get the maximum voltage reading and the minimum voltages on the battery. Do the same thing at the amp, that will tell you if your dropping voltage across any connections.
Don't worry about the "1,000 watt peak" rating--that is mysterious marketing since even at 14.4V with the engine running, 1000/14.4 = 69.4 amps if your amp were 100% efficient. I am guessing the 500 watt rating bridged also assumes 14.4 volts for a fraction of a second. Marketing watts are 1/3rd the size of normal with that 40 amp fuse is the tell tale sign but such is marketing.
If you can get a known good battery, the biggest you can stuff in the car and take voltage readings--then run it around for awhile, if the alternator is not charging over 14 volts, you need a new alternator.
Lead Acid batteries have 6 cells connected together, they run around 2.0V each. Fully charged cells are 2.4V each so 6 cells X 2.4 is 14.4V for a fully charged battery. If one cell starts failing, it can give you a bogus 14.4V reading since it is fully charged with almost no capacity. If a bass hit drops the voltage from 14V to 12.5 with the engine running, or it drops from 12.5 to 10.5V with the engine off--you have a bad cell so time for a new battery.
Wire the amp correctly, swap out the battery for a known good one and take some readings with the volt meter. A good skill to know and it will clear it up for you. It is also something you should have laying around if you mess with car audio--check the voltages on the wires and when wiring dual voice coil subs--it tells you if you wired it correctly. Your sub wired with series voice coils should be around 3 to 3.5 ohms--if it is wired for one ohm, it will be around 0.8 ohms which is not what you want.
500 watts bridged into 4 ohms and it is a 2 ohm stable amp. 170x2 channels into 4 ohms is the actual rating and it is class AB.
It is NOT stable into 2 ohms bridged! Rewire your sub for 4 ohms with the two 2 ohm coils in series for 4 ohms and report back.
It has a stock 40 amp fuse and you have a 100 amp alternator--you should be fine if it is running 4 ohms and your battery/wiring is decent.
Get a multimeter to read DC voltage, connect it to the battery and run it up. Get the maximum voltage reading and the minimum voltages on the battery. Do the same thing at the amp, that will tell you if your dropping voltage across any connections.
Don't worry about the "1,000 watt peak" rating--that is mysterious marketing since even at 14.4V with the engine running, 1000/14.4 = 69.4 amps if your amp were 100% efficient. I am guessing the 500 watt rating bridged also assumes 14.4 volts for a fraction of a second. Marketing watts are 1/3rd the size of normal with that 40 amp fuse is the tell tale sign but such is marketing.
If you can get a known good battery, the biggest you can stuff in the car and take voltage readings--then run it around for awhile, if the alternator is not charging over 14 volts, you need a new alternator.
Lead Acid batteries have 6 cells connected together, they run around 2.0V each. Fully charged cells are 2.4V each so 6 cells X 2.4 is 14.4V for a fully charged battery. If one cell starts failing, it can give you a bogus 14.4V reading since it is fully charged with almost no capacity. If a bass hit drops the voltage from 14V to 12.5 with the engine running, or it drops from 12.5 to 10.5V with the engine off--you have a bad cell so time for a new battery.
Wire the amp correctly, swap out the battery for a known good one and take some readings with the volt meter. A good skill to know and it will clear it up for you. It is also something you should have laying around if you mess with car audio--check the voltages on the wires and when wiring dual voice coil subs--it tells you if you wired it correctly. Your sub wired with series voice coils should be around 3 to 3.5 ohms--if it is wired for one ohm, it will be around 0.8 ohms which is not what you want.
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