Le is the inductance of the voice coil-it can act as an inbuilt passive crossover-but at the freq's the subs will be playing they'd already be outside of the range of it.
Personally I'd stick with the Audiobahn over the Audiopipe-I've heard relatively good things about their amps-nothing good about the subs..
Personally I'd stick with the Audiobahn over the Audiopipe-I've heard relatively good things about their amps-nothing good about the subs..
For a vehicle app, yes, not a typical HIFI/HT app where this much inductance creates a large mid-bass boost, forcing a very low XO point.
Regardless, for a good sound quality [SQ] app I'd want an Le = < 1.25 mH and < half this for high SQ.
GM
edit: If a driver's 'Le' spec isn't listed, best to assume it's very high, especially if advertised for a car audio app.
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DCON-12 D4 ? Sound Solutions Audio 12" 300W Dual 4-Ohm DCON Series Subwoofer
they make em in d4's too..a pair wired parallel gives ya 1 ohm...I have the PB 2XL15's i mentioned earlier wired series/8 ohm per sub and both of them wired parallel for a 4 ohm load to the same amp u got. The difference in SQ/no heat buildup in my amp, etc more than made up for the little difference in spl. I am going to grab a pair of these in 15's because they are the best deal I have found on truly 100% american made subs...did you check out that triple mag stack?...geez..and oh yeah they will handle anything you got in that Hifonics 2000w amp. If you get a chance, clamp it....Mine clamped at 1750 watts/1ohm...about like what other folks get with that amp.
BTW...If you do go with the Audiopops, watch out for the surrounds..I hear they like to separate from the frames around the bolt hole circle.
Yeah I'm not going with the audiopipes. Just read a bunch of bad reviews on them, instead I'm going to buy (2) Pioneer TS-W3002D4, put them in a custom ported box and call it good. =] Although in the past Pioneer subs sucked, they came out with a new generation and I'm willing to give them a chance. Plus my amp is matched up to the subs....so all is good.
Ty for the suggestions Q.
Ty for the suggestions Q.
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They're ok-but not 1000wrms, seen plenty of reports that they won't take more than 750wrms...Bass isn't an important part of japanese music, an old Alpine Japan catalogue I saw had 6 or so wooofers in it-the UK brochure had over double that, so the Jap manufactures are simply making something because there is a market-not for the love of it.
Honestly, I'd look at American subs-plenty to choose from, tend to be higher power handling, better service and you're supporting your home manufactures.
Honestly, I'd look at American subs-plenty to choose from, tend to be higher power handling, better service and you're supporting your home manufactures.
Lol my amp isn't a true CEA certified 2000 watt rms either...so wouldn't they be good together?
I don't have the money for them...They're like $500...per sub....
What I basically do, is go from cheap subs to better subs to awesome subs...
What I do is buy a pair of cheap subs, use em for a little bit, save a little bit of money, sell em for $10 more than what I bought them for...
buy the new better subs and sell them before I wreck them. (audiobahns, lol). Then I am going to upgrade to Pioneer...save up some money *go to a local car stereo to get my amp tuned out to them* then after I got enough money...sell them pioneers and get some...expensive brand. =P
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Audio Savings | (2) POWERBASS XL12D 12" 1600W DUAL 4 OHM CAR SUBWOOFERS
allright, i know you said you don't like powerbass...but this is the best deal on those. At least here you cannot go wrong. PB's website tells you all you need to know about the box and if you don't like them, you can at least get your money back on CL or something. You will need a bigger amp to max them out though...lol
allright, i know you said you don't like powerbass...but this is the best deal on those. At least here you cannot go wrong. PB's website tells you all you need to know about the box and if you don't like them, you can at least get your money back on CL or something. You will need a bigger amp to max them out though...lol
The sub is ok, if you can drive them hard enough, "2000Wrms" it is good enough, you will NOT hear a big difference with an other "better"sub if you build and calculate a good enclosure... enclosures do most, suck on the enclosure and the sub will suck, spend some time on it and it will rock!
those SSA subs i posted earlier would shred that amp...
if he's gonna spend $150.....
Visonik B12 4000 Watt 4-Pair Subs 12" Inch Car/Truck Audio Subwoofers
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