Decided I'm done with Sealed boxes...Just not getting the bass I want out of them. So I'm building a new box, just want some recommendations for it.
Ported series
(I didn't add the slants in the pictures. But I am putting them in the corners.)
dimensions are 33"w x 13.5"h x 26"d
Sub hole cuts 9.5diameter
Port hole is 4" x 11.5"
Or...
dimensions are 33"w x 13.5"h x 26"d
Sub hole cuts 9.5diameter
Port Hole is 4" x 7.5"
Ported series
(I didn't add the slants in the pictures. But I am putting them in the corners.)
dimensions are 33"w x 13.5"h x 26"d
Sub hole cuts 9.5diameter
Port hole is 4" x 11.5"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or...
dimensions are 33"w x 13.5"h x 26"d
Sub hole cuts 9.5diameter
Port Hole is 4" x 7.5"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Did you design the box based on the driver's T/S parameters or just make up a box? Why did you make the cross sectional area of the port larger near the back? What F3 point did you need for this design?
Edit: Looks like Max Caliber and I posted at the same time, but with the pertinent questions.
Edit: Looks like Max Caliber and I posted at the same time, but with the pertinent questions.
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I honestly did the box by volume base. I put the back port by 4in and the front port by 2in. I'm putting in a 2in on both top n bottom in the back. Making the port 7.5in...I honestly don't pay attention to frequency. I don't know how to. So I pay attention to the volume. I may just pull the back part 2in forward.
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If you can do it for two models one for. 75mdf thickness and one 1mdf thickness thatd be awesome. Had trouble w my last. 75 mdf board...wood kept splitting
Well I'm going w 1" mdf board...dimension on outside is 33" x 13.5" x 26" total volume needed is 1.5... after speaker displacement it'd be 1.35 because the sub displacement itself is .15. if you could scrap ofc a few inches in the back it would be awesome. Originally the.dimenison was 33" x 13.5" x 23"...but the ports got in the way. The sub box is just needed for an everyday box. I just want something that people can hear a mile down the rd and sealed box just keeps all the bass inside my car.
Well I'm going w 1" mdf board...dimension on outside is 33" x 13.5" x 26" total volume needed is 1.5... after speaker displacement it'd be 1.35 because the sub displacement itself is .15. if you could scrap ofc a few inches in the back it would be awesome. Originally the.dimenison was 33" x 13.5" x 23"...but the ports got in the way. The sub box is just needed for an everyday box. I just want something that people can hear a mile down the rd and sealed box just keeps all the bass inside my car.
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I pre drill everything, but I think I used drywall screws on my last box...if not...they were awfully big for the .75 mdf board..but the splitting issues were only at the end of the box...and gorilla glue fixed the problem with no issues...but it could've been because I drilled to close to the end.
I listen to rap/techno/and dubstep.
I listen to rap/techno/and dubstep.
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look, bro, just go ahead and drop a couple of these back there and you will never look back...
WoofersEtc.com - SA-15 D4 - Sundown Audio 15" 600W Dual 4-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer
I had a brutus bxi 2006 on a pair of these in 6.5 cubes at 39hz..
WoofersEtc.com - 2XL-154D - Powerbass 15" Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer
..and I have no problem hitting 140's at the kick....there is no substitute for cubic inches.
WoofersEtc.com - SA-15 D4 - Sundown Audio 15" 600W Dual 4-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer
I had a brutus bxi 2006 on a pair of these in 6.5 cubes at 39hz..
WoofersEtc.com - 2XL-154D - Powerbass 15" Dual 4-Ohm Subwoofer
..and I have no problem hitting 140's at the kick....there is no substitute for cubic inches.
1. I hate both speaker brands...if I was going to drop $500 for a sub I would buy a rockford, jl audio, or orion sub.
2. 15" subs DO NOT FIT in my trunk.
3. I love the subs I have now. Just gotta get em in a new box.
4. My amp is 2000watt mono...it'd tear those subs apart.
5. Ty for your input. But I think I'll stick w my audiobahns.
Sounds awesome. Is cheap. Doesn't overheat nor has it blown up.
2. 15" subs DO NOT FIT in my trunk.
3. I love the subs I have now. Just gotta get em in a new box.
4. My amp is 2000watt mono...it'd tear those subs apart.
5. Ty for your input. But I think I'll stick w my audiobahns.
Sounds awesome. Is cheap. Doesn't overheat nor has it blown up.
LOL...ok, bud..I don't buy into "the brand"...I just thought i'd toss you some suggestions based upon the dimensions you gave for your trunk, would fit indeed. Since i have used both on the same amp you use...and it is good you like the audiobahns...somebody has to. I jus figgered you were ready to step up to "theneighborshateme" status.
allright,I feel bad...we all enjoy things that others might like or dislike...it is called DIY...the design you last posted looks pretty decent. I was gonna propose top loading the 15's and porting like you show...something else to keep in mind when using smaller drivers is rear face them to acheive additional loading..rule of thumb is at least width of port = distance from rear of trunk...good luck.
The center passage needs to have twice the cross-sectional area of one of the side passage.
You can also leave out those things at one end of the center passage and at the ends of the side passages. They're not going to make any difference at bass frequencies. Consider instead adding a center panel down the middle of that center passage and flaring each end of the vents - you can accomplish this by adding a 45 degree section that's at least about 3" long on its shortest side.
Finally, do not permanently mount the side passages until you've had a chance to check Fb - with long, large vents, the box calculators tend to over-estimate vent length to reach a particular Fb.
... I have no idea what you're talking about. I considerd adding a center piece but then my vents would only be 1" down the.middle. unless you mean taking the angles out of the center and putting a small center piece because I calculated the ports to
be 4" wide and 11.5" tall although I want them to be 7.5" tall. But I'm waiting for baron to get me the numbers cuz he's helped me in the past on these forums...so I know he has experience. Not saying anything bad about you or nothing. Tho the center piece is a great idea if I cut it half way up the.middle. I don't use the port calculators I'm basing this off mu.sub manual which recommends a circle port of 4"x7.5" but I want the.middd ports...more easier for.me.
For baron: my trunk dimensions are 34"x15"x30" but my amp takes off 2" and 28" is touching my tip of my trunk. At the ending of my trunk it curves out and it goes to about 36" . Just giving you an idea of how big my trunk space is.
I have no idea what you're talking about. I considerd adding a center piece but then my vents would only be 1" down the.middle. unless you mean taking the angles out of the center and putting a small center piece because I calculated the ports to be 4" wide and 11.5" tall although I want them to be 7.5" tall. But I'm waiting for baron to get me the numbers cuz he's helped me in the past on these forums...so I know he has experience. Not saying anything bad about you or nothing. Tho the center piece is a great idea if I cut it half way up the.middle. I don't use the port calculators I'm basing this off mu.sub manual which recommends a circle port of 4"x7.5" but I want the.middd ports...more easier for.me.
For baron: my trunk dimensions are 34"x15"x30" but my amp takes off 2" and 28" is touching my tip of my trunk. At the ending of my trunk it curves out and it goes to about 36" . Just giving you an idea of how big my trunk space is.
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