Truck Subwoofer,

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So i'm going to build a sub box for my dads truck, but a center console. I was coming here to get some advice on what to do with it, i would like to try and make it a solid low playing box, but i'm not sure how to design a ported box, unless sealed is the better scenario for this sub, unfortunately is a pretty new brand, that doesnt hardly release a lot of information on their stuff. I got these 2 10s for free, and decided to put them to use.

but here are the parameters provided
Fs 28
Qts .75
Qms 3.4
VAS 39 Liters
Xmax .3 inches
Re 2
Pe 1500
Q @ Fs .96 ?usable parameter?
Sens 82 Db

and i have 2, and im going to build a center console in a 95 ford Crewcab, so i have quite a bit of room for a box, any help would be really appreciated

Thanks,
Cody
 
unfortunately thats the only option i cant fulfill. he has done walk through's himself, but its kinda our last work vehicle, and the bed will be used, and i highly doubt the 1500 as well, i've been enough around stereos to weed out fantasy from facts. do you think my lower end output will be sufficient in a sealed box? i know with tuning a ported box you can squeeze Db out of it at certain frequencies, and if that requires too big a box, i could do it isobaric to reduce box volume
 
Hi,

With such a high Qts, I'd consider sealed. A ported box (even isobrarik) would end up too big, and getting a flat response would be very difficult.

With regards to the limited Xmax, that'll just limit how loud it can go before distortion comes in. Kinda - it's complicated, but running the drivers past Xmax isn't considered a good idea if sound quality is on the menu.

I'd go for a box as big as possible, make sure it's well braced, then consider adding stuffing (I believe it's polyfill over at your side of the pond).

Chris
 
well If i end up building the box right at the size of the current center console, without expanding any, and trying to squeeze any extra room, i can work out ~3.75^3 ft.

And with 2 10's i'm not super concerned about volume, I've got plenty of amplification for it, and i'm just trying to make it have more bottom end then the 6 1/2's in the front, and 5x7's in the rear.

As for trying to build a tapped horn, i could explain the size that i have to work with, and i would be really excited to work with one and play with it as long as it would play as a good tapped horn! i'll just explain anyways, theres roughly an inch of fall from the front to the back on the floor, its 9 inches tall on the front to the top of where you sit, theres 6 inches back to where the top folds down, it goes up another 6 inches, then back 18 inches, and back down to the floor 18 inches, all 18 inches wide. If someone wants to play with making a tapped horn idea, that would be really awesome, if not, i'll just build it sealed
 
back in the 80's when I started installing car stereo... the unwritten rule for sq was "everyone at some point will come back to 10" sealed." Sealed just works with the gain structure of most vehicles very well.

I love tapped horns, but for mobile, and the shape you have -- sealed is the way to go.

Just do floor firing with about 1 1/2" from sub face to floor with 3 slots -- one each side toward the front seats and one on the back... you'll be plenty happy and it will give you the best 'non localized bass' from that location. (I've built center console sub for suburban that way)
 
If it sounds a bit thin, putting some bricks (or something similar: mustn't compress) in will reduce the cabinet volume, raising Qtc (and Fc), giving more bass higher up in the range.

When you figure out how many bricks sounds best, work out the resultant volume, make a cabinet that big (or just fill the bigger one with bracing).

Chris
 
i've got one in my truck and love it. when i did 4 10s in a mazda extracab, those sounded really good as well, even with $20 subs!

And that sounds excellent to me, is 3.75^ft too much?

qts of .75 for your drivers??? that sounds like what I call a 'boom sub' that is intended for a qtc 1.2 box, or affectionately known as a 'one note wonder.'

I usually tried for .707 qtc total on a sealed box for low bass.

With that high of qts it may sound a bit boomy regardless of box size without some creative crossover/eq...
Cross it low (80hz) and if you have a variable freq bass boost on your amp, set it lower at about 40hz, not 63, which is the default boost on most amps and if you have variable gain on the bassboost, 6-9db. (audiocontrol stuff is great for this if your amps don't have...)
 
well fortunately, i've got some decent equipment behind it so hopefully if i run into the one note wonder i can work around it, if not i can actually buy more respectable subs, i picked them up for free for showing up to a local stereo sale, so i'm not expecting a lot, other then the fact that they play.

And the one note wonder is exactly what i'm trying not to build, any other tricks to get away from that senario??
 
well fortunately, i've got some decent equipment behind it so hopefully if i run into the one note wonder i can work around it, if not i can actually buy more respectable subs, i picked them up for free for showing up to a local stereo sale, so i'm not expecting a lot, other then the fact that they play.

And the one note wonder is exactly what i'm trying not to build, any other tricks to get away from that senario??

The biggest sealed box possible will give a Qtc of 0.75.
I suspect you're going to need to play with some eq.

ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit
 
i picked them up for free for showing up to a local stereo sale, so i'm not expecting a lot, other then the fact that they play.

And the one note wonder is exactly what i'm trying not to build, any other tricks to get away from that senario??

Good ole Outrageous Audio sale.....

+1 for some EQ. With the limits at hand it's the easiest and probably best route.
 
And the one note wonder is exactly what i'm trying not to build, any other tricks to get away from that senario??

Only other trick is to use cheap amps with shallow slope crossovers built into them. A typical cheap car amp that has a 12db/oct lowpass filter, that lets you set it down to 60hz... well that'll about flatten the one note wonder into something reasonable. You'll sacrifice some spl, but that's ok.

Most car audio installs are about installing something that shouldn't work, in a place where it doesn't fit, where the manufacturer surely wanted something else.... So don't sweat it too much.
 
Good ole Outrageous Audio sale.....

+1 for some EQ. With the limits at hand it's the easiest and probably best route.

Yeah, i dont really like going there except for wire because of the price, a friend of mine has a buddy that works there, and asked me to come with to the sale.

And i have an Excelon running the shole shebang, and an older Nakamichi before the 250hcca that powers it, and it all has some pretty involved EQ adjustments you can make. So i imagine i can make it work, but like i said, i can buy a respectable pair if these dont work out, and i can do something else with them
 
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