Musical Subwoofer.... ported or sealed?

[nonsuchpro]

Hey all Beating a dead horse here I'm sure

I have a Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Driver I'm building a box for. This driver is considered best suited for a vented box but I want to go sealed because I already have a ported (actually, passive radiated) HT Sub that is great. However, I cant stand it for music so I'm looking to build a very musical sub. Here are the different responses from ported and sealed according to BassBox. The box will be 2.5cu and I tuned the port to 30hz.

Which would you go with strictly for music playback?

Orange=Ported
Red=Sealed

Thanks!

 

[Arty]

none of those would be any good.
try :
53 liters, and tune to 25 hz.
should be more or less flat.
that is what you need.

a cabinet like that is notorious for requiring LONG port.
to clarify, the port may not need to be inside the box, most probably you should let it stick out of it.
That would be the good solution.

 

[nonsuchpro]

Better?

Vb = 54.71 liters
Fb = 25.86 Hz
F3 = 28.39 Hz
Fill = normal
No. of Vents = 1
Vent shape = round
Vent ends = one flared
Dv = 55 mm
Lv = 160 mm

 

[jonparkhurst]

Better

So much better. THis would roll off nicely with you monitors or other speakers.

JP

 

[thunk303]

I personally always find my sealed subs more musical, but I think that's because they are so much easier to get right that a ported design.
Depending on your room, try fitting your port on the side (length permitting), I have found I can then fire it down/up/sideways for tuning.

Best of luck

Dean

 

[nonsuchpro]

I personally always find my sealed subs more musical, but I think that's because they are so much easier to get right that a ported design.
Depending on your room, try fitting your port on the side (length permitting), I have found I can then fire it down/up/sideways for tuning.

Best of luck

Dean

I have heard both and agree that the sealed sounds more musical. I made a sealed box last month for another driver and I thought it sounded great but it was missing over an octave. Is there a way I get my sealed specs looking closer to the ported? The HO (high output) version of this sub can go in a smaller sealed box with better results I'm told but I got this at a super deal. I don't want a ground pounder, I already have one of those. I want this to be really really really musical... the best I can make of it.

Thanks all for the input

 

[chris661]

ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit

Chris

 

[nonsuchpro]

ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit

Chris

I will be using the O-Audio Bash amp with the EQ section. Can I achieve this by boosting the lows?

 

[johnr66]

I don't know specifically about that amp, but the eq should allow you to compensate for the roll off. I find speakers for music to have an F3 in the mid 30Hz range to be more than adequate unless you listen to music with a lot of sub 30Hz content which is rare.

 

[nonsuchpro]

I don't know specifically about that amp, but the eq should allow you to compensate for the roll off. I find speakers for music to have an F3 in the mid 30Hz range to be more than adequate unless you listen to music with a lot of sub 30Hz content which is rare.

I am specifically building this to accompany my near-field monitors in my studio. I do have hip-hip and R&B clients, they are the only ones other than a 5-7.1 mix where I would need sub 30hz strong. I have a DefTech Supercube I that goes down to 13hz for that task. 30hz is good enough for this sub.
Thanks

 

[chris661]

I will be using the O-Audio Bash amp with the EQ section. Can I achieve this by boosting the lows?

Hmmm...

I'm not familiar with that particular bit of kit, but a LT circuit is a very precise tool, as it matches the driver's roll-off exactly (including any resonant peak before the roll-off), which is often more than can be said for most plate amps.

It's not a particularly difficult bit of circuitry to sort out, and it sounds like it'd drop straight in to the plate amp itself, so I think I'd just go for that.

Some say that setting it for Q=0.5 is best for room integration. I support that setting, merely because it uses less gain (saves power, excursion, etc)

Chris

 

[nonsuchpro]

Hmmm...

I'm not familiar with that particular bit of kit, but a LT circuit is a very precise tool, as it matches the driver's roll-off exactly (including any resonant peak before the roll-off), which is often more than can be said for most plate amps.

It's not a particularly difficult bit of circuitry to sort out, and it sounds like it'd drop straight in to the plate amp itself, so I think I'd just go for that.

Some say that setting it for Q=0.5 is best for room integration. I support that setting, merely because it uses less gain (saves power, excursion, etc)

Chris

Well if I can figure out how to do it I'll look into it. I'm not to good with mods... heh.
Here's the amp O Audio - 500W BASH Subwoofer Amplifier

 

[ODougbo]

Somebody on the thread said it would need a long port.

55mm x 160mm, looks on the small end, may even whistle.


Vb = 54.71 liters
Fb = 25.86 Hz
F3 = 28.39 Hz
Fill = normal
No. of Vents = 1
Vent shape = round
Vent ends = one flared
Dv = 55 mm
Lv = 160 mm

 

[nonsuchpro]

Somebody on the thread said it would need a long port.

55mm x 160mm, looks on the small end, may even whistle.


Vb = 54.71 liters
Fb = 25.86 Hz
F3 = 28.39 Hz
Fill = normal
No. of Vents = 1
Vent shape = round
Vent ends = one flared
Dv = 55 mm
Lv = 160 mm

This is what bass box spit out... I didnt try it. I went with the red curve on the first post.

 

[ODougbo]

Sound a little wimpy, sounds like it could handle 2 - 55mm ports, but longer. I like the orange response curve.

 

[KRhirschkorn]

I my self only do Ported cabs but I tune to 30-35 Hz. and I also only use brands that I know work. some work better then others. some are just junk in any cabinet. .

 

[revboden]

all done or are you open to ideas.

 

[dirkwright]

Hey all Beating a dead horse here I'm sure

I have a Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Driver I'm building a box for. This driver is considered best suited for a vented box but I want to go sealed because I already have a ported (actually, passive radiated) HT Sub that is great. However, I cant stand it for music so I'm looking to build a very musical sub. Here are the different responses from ported and sealed according to BassBox. The box will be 2.5cu and I tuned the port to 30hz.

Which would you go with strictly for music playback?

Orange=Ported
Red=Sealed

Thanks!

Try 1 cu ft in a sealed box. The -3dB point is 35Hz. Nice and smooth rolloff. Group delay is less than 8ms too. Maximum output is excursion limited to about 111dB @ 270 watts.

 

[dirkwright]

Here's the results, at 270watts input. Black line is FR, blue is group delay, red is excursion, and purple is phase.

 

[nonsuchpro]

all done or are you open to ideas.

I've built 3 boxes. 12x12x12, 16x12x18 and 18x12x24. (the 12" # on all 3 is the height due to desk limitations) I like the 12x12x12 best, it's only .6cf internally but it's giving me what I want for music.