First flaring the port.
I know that the inside being flared is more important than the outside. I used a program called Flare-it to find out when the port will start chuffing. I set the flare radius to .75 I was planning on using quarter round to get the flare. Does this only simulate one end being flared or both?
I assume it would be better to have both ends flared at .75 but out of the next two options what would be better?
1. Inside flared to .75 outside stays flat.
2. Inside flared to .75 outside flared to .25
The reason I ask this is due to a failed box design lol If I must........ I will tweak it a bit.
Now for the amp connectors.
I bout a Bash 300 amp and a Dayton RSS315HF-4 driver. The connectors on the amp are different than the ones on the driver. Should I just strip the wire or buy some new connectors and what would those be called?
Thanks a million!!!
J
I know that the inside being flared is more important than the outside. I used a program called Flare-it to find out when the port will start chuffing. I set the flare radius to .75 I was planning on using quarter round to get the flare. Does this only simulate one end being flared or both?
I assume it would be better to have both ends flared at .75 but out of the next two options what would be better?
1. Inside flared to .75 outside stays flat.
2. Inside flared to .75 outside flared to .25
The reason I ask this is due to a failed box design lol If I must........ I will tweak it a bit.
Now for the amp connectors.
I bout a Bash 300 amp and a Dayton RSS315HF-4 driver. The connectors on the amp are different than the ones on the driver. Should I just strip the wire or buy some new connectors and what would those be called?
Thanks a million!!!
J
howdy, I just bought a 315hf-4 and am going to build the design this weekend, modified a bit 5ft3 box, tune to 16Hz, same slot port, with routed .75" round-over (there will be a build thread with pics) using constrained layer damping. I'm stoked
flair it calculates for both ends flared but outside is more important than the inside. .75" is a minimum really.
As to the connectors, I use solder.
the bash has blade connectors also called Faston connectors
flair it calculates for both ends flared but outside is more important than the inside. .75" is a minimum really.
As to the connectors, I use solder.
the bash has blade connectors also called Faston connectors
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flair it calculates for both ends flaired but outside is more important than the inside. .75" is a minimum really.
As to the connectors, I use solder.
the bash has blade connectors.
Ok so I will have to redesign my box a bit.
You really didn't explain how I could connect the the amp to the driver. Should I just strip the ends on the amp and insert them into the driver?
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Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
Sweet figured that was the best option. Even if I know the answer I check, recheck, and check again... ha
lol
Thanks.
Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
lol
Thanks.
+1 and DON'T twist the wires, just fold them back as Cal explained and put them in the connectors.Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
I would use 2.5mm² minimum
I was thinking the whole length from amp to driver, sorry for the confusion.The difference between two foot of two-conductor wire from the connector to the woofer between 10ga (2.5mm) and 16ga (1.3mm) is 0.012Ω. With a drive level of 800W the excess loss from the 0.012Ω in the 16ga wire is 1.2W, a loss of 0.00652dB!
BFD
Isn't it so that it's always recommended to use 2.5mm² minimum, whatever box it concerns? Even a low power system?
Very expensive studio monitors like the Genelec 1036A with its two 18" LF drivers, doesn't use flared ports...
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That's true, i've tested some similar hybrid Aperiodic slot ports that function as ports at low SPL levels and shift to Aperiodic resistance at high SPL levels. they worked well, sound got cleaner as the spl levels rise. turbulence-induced back-pressure is interesting stuff but very difficult to calculate over a pulse frequency range like sound. trial and error is the way to go i'd say.
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