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Old 9th September 2011, 12:45 AM   #1
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Default Questions about flared ends and amp conectors.

First flaring the port.

I know that the inside being flared is more important than the outside. I used a program called Flare-it to find out when the port will start chuffing. I set the flare radius to .75 I was planning on using quarter round to get the flare. Does this only simulate one end being flared or both?

I assume it would be better to have both ends flared at .75 but out of the next two options what would be better?

1. Inside flared to .75 outside stays flat.

2. Inside flared to .75 outside flared to .25

The reason I ask this is due to a failed box design lol If I must........ I will tweak it a bit.



Now for the amp connectors.

I bout a Bash 300 amp and a Dayton RSS315HF-4 driver. The connectors on the amp are different than the ones on the driver. Should I just strip the wire or buy some new connectors and what would those be called?




Thanks a million!!!

J
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Old 9th September 2011, 01:11 AM   #2
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howdy, I just bought a 315hf-4 and am going to build the design this weekend, modified a bit 5ft3 box, tune to 16Hz, same slot port, with routed .75" round-over (there will be a build thread with pics) using constrained layer damping. I'm stoked

flair it calculates for both ends flared but outside is more important than the inside. .75" is a minimum really.

As to the connectors, I use solder.

the bash has blade connectors also called Faston connectors

Last edited by revboden; 9th September 2011 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 9th September 2011, 01:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revboden View Post
flair it calculates for both ends flaired but outside is more important than the inside. .75" is a minimum really.

As to the connectors, I use solder.

the bash has blade connectors.
Ok so I will have to redesign my box a bit.

You really didn't explain how I could connect the the amp to the driver. Should I just strip the ends on the amp and insert them into the driver?
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Old 9th September 2011, 02:58 AM   #4
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that'll work
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Old 9th September 2011, 03:34 AM   #5
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Those connectors on the speakers are designed to accepct a bare wire and hold it securely...... making good contact.
So, I would imagine that would be your best/simpest option.
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Old 9th September 2011, 03:48 AM   #6
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Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
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Old 9th September 2011, 04:59 AM   #7
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Sweet figured that was the best option. Even if I know the answer I check, recheck, and check again... ha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
lol

Thanks.
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Old 9th September 2011, 05:54 AM   #8
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VoiceCoil magazine had a test on flared ports.

The results showed that they still chuffed with only about 1.5dB~2dB more output than a non-flared port.

Use a PR if you have problems with chuffing.
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Old 9th September 2011, 03:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Those connectors are the one small, one big females that are supposed to fit over the spade tabs of cheaper stamped metal speakers. This is so the average know nothing can do it without instructions. Your driver on the other hand is big and manly, has a cast basket and uses the bare wire method. The best connectors are no connectors so strip away. What I like to do is strip off twice as much as you need and fold the bare part back on itself halfway down so it actually fills more of the hole as its doubled up inside the driver connector.
+1 and DON'T twist the wires, just fold them back as Cal explained and put them in the connectors.
I would use 2.5mm▓ minimum
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Old 9th September 2011, 08:57 PM   #10
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The difference between two foot of two-conductor wire from the connector to the woofer between 10ga (2.5mm) and 16ga (1.3mm) is 0.012Ω. With a drive level of 800W the excess loss from the 0.012Ω in the 16ga wire is 1.2W, a loss of 0.00652dB!

BFD
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