No that's already taken into account 100db @ 20Hz with 'sound' quieter than 100db @ 1KHz but it will sound right as long distortion down etc.
Thanks very much for the responses here.
I'll settle into the build and enjoy. I looked at 4 X 8 of oak veneer 3/4 mdf at Menards yesterday for 39 dollars. Good price, but the more I considered the hours and hours committed to making sawdust and fretting over veneer edge alignment.... and since I got the driver and amp at such decent sale prices I'm going to go true budget here and refinish a sturdy thrift store end table, perhaps in solid oak in some simple 'primitive', or 'mission' or 'scandanavian' style and brace and seal the interior space. Quite a bit of that stuff available out there at less than new lumber cost for anyone willing to resand and refinish.
I'll settle into the build and enjoy. I looked at 4 X 8 of oak veneer 3/4 mdf at Menards yesterday for 39 dollars. Good price, but the more I considered the hours and hours committed to making sawdust and fretting over veneer edge alignment.... and since I got the driver and amp at such decent sale prices I'm going to go true budget here and refinish a sturdy thrift store end table, perhaps in solid oak in some simple 'primitive', or 'mission' or 'scandanavian' style and brace and seal the interior space. Quite a bit of that stuff available out there at less than new lumber cost for anyone willing to resand and refinish.
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Low SPL is indeed relative, to some 85 dB is screaming loud, to others it is barely on.
If you are running in the 80 to 85 dB SPL level around 1000 Hz, 110 dB in the 40 Hz range will keep up.
It is easy to run out of low frequency headroom without hurting your ears ;^).
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Found a cabinet at my favorite thrift, St. Vincent DePaul yesterday.
Ten dollars.
It's solid oak. Not one stitch of veneer (edges of all panels are visible). Office file of some sort. Antique, but not of any collectible value beyond what I want to use it for. Nice thing about this really old oak, especially if it's been well preserved over the years by coats of paint and varnish, is that the grain is gorgeous beyond most off the shelf stuff at the big box stores. Not easy to see in this shot, but it amazingly beautiful...
All that needs done is to disassemble, sand off the finish with a vac connected orbital sander, trim four inches off of the overall height, slap on a coat of urethane, and this is what it looks like drawn to exact scale along with my present speakers..
It's 3/4 inch solid oak all around. What I'll probably do is build a sub out of 1/2 inch MDF to exact outer dimensions to fit within this cabinet's inner dimensions and glue it within. That solves my sealing and joint strength issues. I'll plan for the volume of a vented system and seal off the volume for the present sealed sub I'm planning on using. That way I'll keep the option open in the future to modify it to vented if desired. Also plan to keep the front hinges and keyhole visible, and put some books and a lamp on top to disguise it better... more invisible bass!
Ten dollars.
It's solid oak. Not one stitch of veneer (edges of all panels are visible). Office file of some sort. Antique, but not of any collectible value beyond what I want to use it for. Nice thing about this really old oak, especially if it's been well preserved over the years by coats of paint and varnish, is that the grain is gorgeous beyond most off the shelf stuff at the big box stores. Not easy to see in this shot, but it amazingly beautiful...
All that needs done is to disassemble, sand off the finish with a vac connected orbital sander, trim four inches off of the overall height, slap on a coat of urethane, and this is what it looks like drawn to exact scale along with my present speakers..
It's 3/4 inch solid oak all around. What I'll probably do is build a sub out of 1/2 inch MDF to exact outer dimensions to fit within this cabinet's inner dimensions and glue it within. That solves my sealing and joint strength issues. I'll plan for the volume of a vented system and seal off the volume for the present sealed sub I'm planning on using. That way I'll keep the option open in the future to modify it to vented if desired. Also plan to keep the front hinges and keyhole visible, and put some books and a lamp on top to disguise it better... more invisible bass!
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I'd recommend 3/4" mdf & braced since the two layers are not tied together across the surface. Pad between layers to damp vibration. You may even have room for sand dampening if the inner box isn't too small.
What is the new volume?
I'd still go sealed given your initial requirements. Being an adjustable powered sub, I'd be surprised if you didn't like it.
What is the new volume?
I'd still go sealed given your initial requirements. Being an adjustable powered sub, I'd be surprised if you didn't like it.
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