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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Hi everyone
Backstory (Optional to read I used this site to build my first subwoofer last November. Very helpful as I knew nothing then, I've learned a bit more from then to now though ![]() I built my subwoofer as I was suggested by helpful people here, but I made one big mistake when making it. It is in a vented enclosure and instead of putting the port 6" away from the sidewall like told, I accidently put it practically right next to the sidewall. It still sounds great, but when turned up loud I can hear a bit of port turbulence and it distorts, when it was designed not to distort until ~113 db. Question: Anyway, long story short I am now thinking of putting it in a new , properly designed enclosure. I'm also thinking of using a sealed enclosure this time. Because sometimes the bass does sound a little muddy coming from my sub, it should be more accurate and less muddy. As far as i know between the different types of enclosures though, it will restrict the sub's excursion and lower-frequency bass output. I dont usually even turn the amp volume up more than half way though and its very loud, so would it be ok? Any advice on the two types of enclosures? If I'm going to build a sealed enclosure I need a new design i presume vs. ported. Could someone make me one in winISD? I tried to but I can never get the program to work correctly, and it gives me crazy frequency output graphs. Thanks in advance ![]() If I'm going to stick with ported, I will keep the same design i have already, and just put the port in the correct spot What do you think for the enclosure type? Info on my sub and current enclosure: Sub: Dayton SD315-88 12" Shielded DVC Subwoofer Hooked up in Parallel Specs: Power Handling: 120 watts RMS/180 watts max VCdia: 2" Le: 1.31 mH Impedance: 8 ohms per coil / 4 ohms total Re: 3.0 ohms Frequency range: 25-1,000 Hz Fs: 27 Hz SPL: 93.5 dB 2.83V/1m, 90.5 dB 1W/1m Vas: 4.34 cu. ft. Qms: 3.44 Qes: 0.38 Qts: 0.34 Xmax: 7 mm Enclosure: ~3.4 cu. ft. 3/4in MDF 4 5/16" Port tube 19" x 19" x 20" Amp: 115W Foster Amp |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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I have one of those drivers, 3.4ft^3 sealed sims well, just plug the port to see if you like it. I use Oatey test plugs. 4 in. Mechanical Plastic Test Plug-33403 at The Home Depot
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
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Sealing up your ported enclosure, according to my figures I get Appx. a system Q of .51... Right at the system "Perfect Transient" figure. Trying to get the Qtc up toward the .707 you could 'Fill in' the port, trying to get the enclosure exist with less volume..........but it might really not be worth the effort. Seal it up, it should sound nice & tight as this driver really shouldn't be of a ported type.........the EBP is running at 71......which is of the sealed type. Now if the EBP was nearer to 100.............that would best be a ported type.
__________________________________________________ ____Rick......... |
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#4 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Dayton markets it as versatile for use in sealed or ported, and ported is how the member on here designed it. But I would be interested in hearing it sealed. It doesnt sound BAD ported like now, just distorts when turned up really loud.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
If a sealed cabinet is desired, eq will probably be needed for acceptable bass response. Chris |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
With the plugging idea I can at least try it, and then if I dont like how it sounds i can take it out, which is good. If i seal it and it sounds fine ill be good, if not then ill need to rebuild a ported enclosure. Would this one work? Cherne Industries 271543 Pipe Plug, Mechanical, Size 4 In |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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a sock and some duct tape will do the trick as well.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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