I got loose screws

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I got some loose screws :D No, Not in my head, (I think :p) but in my subwoofer driver, after about ten days after install, I check all the wood screws, some were half turn and some were full turn loose. All were tight on installation with a squeaky sound on the last turn. Any ideas to prevent them from getting loose ?
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Get them out, put a little wood glue in the hole and reinstall.

:nod:

If you want to get really funky put a small notch in the thread(s) with either a metal saw or a really beefy set of side cutters (or similar) so the glue has something to grab other than the thread which it doesn't stick to. Without the notches it will be relying strictly on friction. Certainly better than plain MDF but not without problems. The notches are the home handy man's Loctite for wood screws. :)
 
With the glues:

I always drive it in, then back it out- I'm wanting to make a socket within the wood, in essence. Either CA or woodglue works, but you have to back it out VERY quickly with CA and throw screws away after a few holes. But this method allows solid grip with better removal later down the road.
 
Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
break a piece off a wooden toothpick, put it in the hole, and done
with glue, even better

but with hard pumping subwoofer, well
maybe enlarge screw holes to fit a hardwood plug

if you actually use insert for thread screw, you may want to use locktite, non bonding
you definately should not tighten thread screws all too much

btw, otherwise I'm with revboden, use screws long enough to go all the way through baffle

but I have seen videos of a real heavy subwoofer pushing enough force to lift its own weight from the floor
definately not an easy task to keep such a thing in place
 
Better that the T-nuts are inserted from the side opposite that the screws go in.

I think so - a hurricane nut is conceptually very similar to a T-Nut except it has a flat round rear flange (no tines) and the OD of the threaded section has a couple of raised ridges to prevent rotation while the screw is tightened. It has a cleaner finished appearance than a T-Nut while providing similar joint strength characteristics.
 
Just make darned sure the T-nuts or inserts are solidly anchored to the MDF. If they come loose and spin when you want to remove the driver, that's not fun. For most woofers I use 1/4" socket-head cap screws, with metric flat washers that are just the right fit (but small enough to fit inside the woofer frame).
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.