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Old 24th July 2011, 11:09 AM   #1
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Talking Car Subs for Home Use Thread

So DIY Audio Folks, what Car Audio Subwoofers do you guys like to use in your HT or home stereo setups????

Car Subwoofers have good RMS and peak ratings, are easily available, and usually less expensive than comparable home audio subs, and there's many here that like to DIY them.

I like Sealed Box for SQ, and small size, but recommend ANY car subwoofer regardless of box size or type.

We get mention here often of car subs to use at home, so I wanted to make a thread that is easy for folks to browse to get some ideas...........

Subwoofers I like or have experienced....
Sony XS-L120P5W - 12 inch 5 Side Cone 350W RMS 1200W MAX. Worked GREAT and sounded clean and deep in a 1.25cu ft box.

Subwoofer I'd like to try:
Lanzar 1232D - 12 inch 1100W RMS 2200W MAX, 3 inch voicecoil dual 2-ohm coils (4 or 1 ohm) high QTS and designed for small box


SO folks, what subs do you like, and what subs peak your interest?
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Last edited by EWorkshop1708; 24th July 2011 at 11:14 AM. Reason: as usual
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Old 24th July 2011, 05:06 PM   #2
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EWorkshop1708 View Post
So DIY Audio Folks, what Car Audio Subwoofers do you guys like to use in your HT or home stereo setups????

We get mention here often of car subs to use at home, so I wanted to make a thread that is easy for folks to browse to get some ideas...........

SO folks, what subs do you like, and what subs peak your interest?
I think you mean pique; certainly not peek

I am making two W-baffle dipoles with 4 of these:
Amazon.com: Dual Electronics DS12 12 inch Car Subwoofer: Electronics
Dual DS12 el cheapos (I got them locally for $17.99 each.)

These seem to have all the goods - under spider venting, bumped back plate, pole vent, poly cone, foam surround. They aren't noisy under high excursion. I have a DSP that I'll be driving them with for XO/EQ. It should be a fun project.

Preliminary T/S (average of 4)
Fs - 30.7 +/- ~1
Qts 0.49 +/- 0.04
Qes 0.51
Vas 79liters +/- 7
Sd .05228
Re 3.27 +0.08/-0.02

Xmax unknown, probably ~8-10mm from what I can see of coil overhang.
It'll probably be a couple months yet before I get around to making them.

Parameters unchanged after a couple hours of 10Hz large excursion and subsequent cool-down.
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Old 24th July 2011, 06:55 PM   #3
blueznl is offline blueznl  Netherlands
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If nothing gets in the way end this week I will have 2 100 liter Sonosubs BR using the Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1. I might 'shorten' them if some fooling around with Linkwitz Transform works out well.
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Old 24th July 2011, 09:32 PM   #4
Pallas is offline Pallas  Pakistan
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The JBL W15GTi is a standout driver.

Alas, with all of the supply problems that the hobbyist suppliers are having of late (can anyone think of a good 15 currently available, other than the Dayton Reference) it looks like people will be going back to where we were ~15 years ago, when high-performance subs used "car" drivers far more often than the do now.
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Old 24th July 2011, 09:50 PM   #5
blueznl is offline blueznl  Netherlands
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If not for availability then at least because of price. Car subs, especially *used* car subs, are affordable. 50 bucks or so and you can find some nice ones. Dedicated *real* (ahem) subs simply cost too much... It's like my drinking problem: I can't afford it.
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Old 28th July 2011, 01:57 PM   #6
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi Ron E,

That Dual DS12 12" sounds like a great find. Please, keep us updated on your results.

Regards,
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Old 28th July 2011, 04:13 PM   #7
DrDyna is offline DrDyna  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueznl View Post
If not for availability then at least because of price. Car subs, especially *used* car subs, are affordable. 50 bucks or so and you can find some nice ones. Dedicated *real* (ahem) subs simply cost too much... It's like my drinking problem: I can't afford it.
After the way I've heard some people playing their car speakers, I'd shy away from used. I can only imagine that some driver that someone has used in what can only be described as attempting to disassemble their license plate assembly probably doesn't measure as it should.
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Old 29th July 2011, 06:18 PM   #8
blueznl is offline blueznl  Netherlands
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In that case I'm assuming myself lucky, thus far I haven't had any bad luck, though admittedly I 1. steered clear of the cheapest brands, 2. listened to them before I bought them. Still, you've got a very good point there.
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Old 29th July 2011, 06:54 PM   #9
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I built a Bill Fitzmaurice Autotuba AutoTuba and it is really scary in a car with a SINGLE 8"! If you have a smaller/medium room it works great. For larger rooms it just doesn't push enough air to make a rumble.
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Old 30th July 2011, 04:15 AM   #10
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Ideally you check your f3's of your boxes (run the numbers). I noticed that when you take an awesome sub from a car and hook it up in your house, you say "Where's the beef ?" That is free bass boost from your vehicle.

A lot of car audio drivers have a highish qts (above .4 to me) that can make a small sealed box or an impressive bandpass, but not ideal sealed or ported. I found a fairly cheap car audio driver in the back of partsexpress that had low sealed f3 in a smallish box and was inexpensive, I can get back to you on which one it was.

In a car (about 100ft3), a sealed .707 with an f3 of 45hz measures fairly flat down to 8hz, yet sounds like junk if run in a house.

I know ported f3=27hz (port tuning to 27hz) cleans my clock very well. 6th order (helps reduce excursion below tuning for protection) helps even more. But 4th orders with f3 near 27hz can get large, and good luck tuning to 27hz in a small box.

I've been tempted for the 15" hf dayton subs. 2 of those sealed in 11ft3 make for a .707 with an fsb=f3=30hz. That would be an awesome rumbler for a house ($310 for the pair). But instead I got something else in the works.

Or you could boost the bass and then run subsonic filter below that, but be carefull how low you want to go. Output way down there is about cone area and xmax, regardless of sensitivities.

Norman
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