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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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Hello all,
As I'm busy designing surround enclosures, I will need a good sub of course. It has to be good from the first time, no interest in doing something half-good to change it anyway after a year. So the effects of the HT have to be a bit shocking, quite literally. ![]() Yes I have neighbors too... nearest are at 100 yards. I have only 2x 200W @ 4Ω at the moment, no intension to move up for now, mainly because it takes a lot of extra power just to get 3dB increase → a bit of efficiency is wanted too. If really needed, it can be bridges to get 600W. I'm willing to use multiple drivers, say 4 pieces at 8Ω each (depending on the design of course) this would match the amp quite nicely. Would it be beneficial to put 4 driver in a vertical row to minimize bass maximums and minimums throwout the room? I can't use Geddes method. Maximum outside dimensions: height 2m45 / 96"½ width 89cm / 35" depth 38.5cm / 15" The depth can be altered if needed or put at an angle, sub is in the corner, ceiling-height. Drivers I have right here: One JBL, unknown type, have to measure it, only 10" Four Radio Shack's type:40-9000 (15") Two 8" out of Bose boxes. Thanks for reading. edit: Oh yes, Carmina burana...those canon shots, that would be nice the experience like it should be...
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Bart Last edited by ßart West-VL.; 24th June 2011 at 05:06 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: MN, USA
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There's this:
CSS Tapped Horn at HomeTheaterShack It's a tapped horn with two CSS SDX10's. Efficient and low, but kinda big. Here are the drivers: http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SDX10 140USD per driver. Shipping to Belgium might be annoying, though. Last edited by CollinA; 24th June 2011 at 05:17 PM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: n/a
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Oliver |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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I was always a bit scared of horns for the obvious reasons but after reading post #54 of the trio12 thread, I'm starting to get excited and less scared
Thanks Collin and Oliver, back to the reading...
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Bart |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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I'd look at the design on ESP, I love the circuit he uses to drives subs way below FS, you need a good plate amp and a strong sub driver and this little circuit... also the actual box is about the size of the driver... good for WAF.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Looking at your available drivers...
Break out the 15"s!! Make a pair of cabinets (one per amplifier channel), 2x15" per side, sealed, add eq as you see fit. If nothing else, it'll be rather loud. Chris
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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Yes, that would be project 48.
I read about that too, some time ago and find it interesting but needs a strong woofer and amp, 'power-hungry' comes to mind. Maybe a combination of some designs might work, but not the horn and project 48 of course.
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Bart |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: West Vlaanderen
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Chris, do you think it has a real chance of fulfilling the target as requested?
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Bart |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Of the drivers you have, 4x15" sealed +eq will get you closest to those canon shots, unless you have the capability to measure the T/S parameters of your drivers?
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"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Well he says he used 400W for the prototype, but 200W would have been enough.
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