Fully active, horn loaded if you can afford the space. If not simple good components will do!
Midbass horns will be the largest, if they are straight horns.
I can't afford the space so I'm doing 2x15" BR midbass we, 8" sealed back midranges and 1" compression drivers. 4 way active.
Sub amp is class H and all 3 other amps are class AB
Midbass horns will be the largest, if they are straight horns.
I can't afford the space so I'm doing 2x15" BR midbass we, 8" sealed back midranges and 1" compression drivers. 4 way active.
Sub amp is class H and all 3 other amps are class AB
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I don't think I can really afford the space either (I'm guessing if I have to ask, then I probably don't). One of my worries is getting the 2, 3 and eventually 4+ pairs of tops to all integrate with each other nicely (no/very minimal phase issues, etc). So, I'm looking for a design concept that will have superb cohesion.
For some examples: I don't like those pockets of sound you get when some wedges are packed together and I don't want it to sound like the flanger is on when walking past the stack.
For some examples: I don't like those pockets of sound you get when some wedges are packed together and I don't want it to sound like the flanger is on when walking past the stack.
Has anyone done a side by side comparison of the DIY TH118 and the Danley TH118?
No one has posted any such test on DIYaudio, but the XOC1TH18 is quite similar to the TH-115/TH-118 fold pattern and identical in size.
Arauc-o-ply baby, in the tree top
When the jam breaks, the bass it will drop.
It's been a whirlwind 3 weeks building these TH18. I did a quick shootout against my old 40 Hz boxes to break in the new ones playing some Metallica before their first use. I was quite pleased with the results. Subjectivey, they seem every bit as sensitive and go a bit deeper than the front loaders they replace even though they model to the same 40 Hz in a quad. I was even more pleased Friday night. Really simple alignment - adjusted the delay to 8.5ms and actually took 3dB off the old setup. Cranked up the B&C's in the THs run STONE COLD, where the old boxes would get blazing hot on top and noticeably lose SPL over the course of 2 hours. Quite a bit more than equivalently-pushed labhorns, in fact.
Fortunately, I have some line arrays to build before I have to decide whether to build more of the same or look into bigger boxes using those same drivers.
They are really nice and easy to move around.
When the jam breaks, the bass it will drop.
It's been a whirlwind 3 weeks building these TH18. I did a quick shootout against my old 40 Hz boxes to break in the new ones playing some Metallica before their first use. I was quite pleased with the results. Subjectivey, they seem every bit as sensitive and go a bit deeper than the front loaders they replace even though they model to the same 40 Hz in a quad. I was even more pleased Friday night. Really simple alignment - adjusted the delay to 8.5ms and actually took 3dB off the old setup. Cranked up the B&C's in the THs run STONE COLD, where the old boxes would get blazing hot on top and noticeably lose SPL over the course of 2 hours. Quite a bit more than equivalently-pushed labhorns, in fact.
Fortunately, I have some line arrays to build before I have to decide whether to build more of the same or look into bigger boxes using those same drivers.
They are really nice and easy to move around.
Attachments
Sweet build! 4 more coming soon? 
Btw what did you use for the driver displacement correction? What compression ratio? I know you said they don't heat up, but how do they sound when pushed?
It looks like the box you have constructed is almost identical to the DSL TH-118. Yours has more reflectors and more bracing than the DSL box however
Btw what did you use for the driver displacement correction? What compression ratio? I know you said they don't heat up, but how do they sound when pushed?
It looks like the box you have constructed is almost identical to the DSL TH-118. Yours has more reflectors and more bracing than the DSL box however
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A TH118, as in *one*. Meanwhile, I'm thinking about four *more*. Don't know how soon - could be 6 months or a year.
The cone correction was based on suggestions in earlier parts of the thread - and again in post 1276 when I asked if I should be using correction with my driver. I then went to work laying out several iterations to scale on 1/4" plywood intil I got something I could live with and build easily. Now I have template and measurements for making more.
These cabs play very clean at high levels. No heat and no signs of stress. I'm sure I can bridge the sub amps with no problems if everything wrere carefully set up and controlled.
The older horns didn't get mouth bracing because I realized their limitations before they were finished. I just kept using them that way, as the biggest problem was heat and compression which kept the output down. The choices were either upgrade to a low compression driver (15TBX100) and finish them (braces, sand, paint) or to build something new with a friendlier truck pack for not much more money. Not to mention the perfect excuse to try out the newer B&C's which also model very well in horns tuned in the 25-30 Hz range... giving me the option to eventually replace the lab stack.
Well time is alway a factor as Dennis ,djk, stated below I would pay someone to build one of these minus the driver if that was a option I just don't have the time to do it I have too many projects and gigs.
No measurements yet - need a calm weekend when I don't have something else going on. The only measurement so far was to align the crossover - that was in-room and I didn't bother saving it.
Subjectivey, they dig as deep as advertised. It will be interesting to see exactly how much ripple I get with the TBW100's, but I need controlled conditions to get anything valid. Another interesting comparison might be to drop in an Omega Pro 18 and see if it even works at all. The cone would probably shred at high power, but it would be informative to see if the FR is as bad as the sims say it would be.
Subjectivey, they dig as deep as advertised. It will be interesting to see exactly how much ripple I get with the TBW100's, but I need controlled conditions to get anything valid. Another interesting comparison might be to drop in an Omega Pro 18 and see if it even works at all. The cone would probably shred at high power, but it would be informative to see if the FR is as bad as the sims say it would be.