here's what I have almost got build need some boxes for the all in one horns and a little more wiring ,I have 2 Inukes that are to be here tomorrow, so I hope all will be ready for a test,I have 2 more on order but won't see them till june I'm running all chanels active out a DEQ2496 so I have 2 350 watt amps to test with for the subs,and a 6 channel 150 watt each chanel for the dm-2should be enough horsepower to at least get them broke in ,if the nieghbors don't through me out,They have seen me building and want to hear them so maybe a block party is in order,lol. Bar B Que and beer and some music,lol.
The pictures on black aren't real good sorry,
NoSmoking
The pictures on black aren't real good sorry,
NoSmoking
Attachments
Last edited:
The show was successful. The headliner was nice to hear (Cloud D) as his style was deeper, more spaced out (opposed to the noisy mid-rangey stuff) dubstep/purple/un-categorizable selections.
We were in the basement - so, it was pretty contained (upstairs rattled quite a lot though). Cops don't typically show up anywhere around here unless there's violence.....or a random drunk homeless person passed out, unresponsive, in plain sight in the parking lot, laying against the building.
Yeah, Dayton square hole.
- The 1st temporary mounting method was on the face of the enclosure. Screws about every 6-8 squares. A bit of rattling when rolling the cabs and virtually no rattling during the show, IIRC. I think the grill made just a tad bit of noise during a certain frequency (~70Hz? - wild guess)
- The next method, I PL'd 1" strips of my 3/4" baltic to the inside of the mouths and mounted the grills there. To my surprise, I was greeted with more rattle - both while rolling cabs around and during bass notes at more frequencies.
- It wasn't until I placed acoustically transparent foam behind the grills. That's when all ratlles disappeared. I still need to find the proper way to do this. At the time, I sprayed fabric "glue" to the back of the grill and layed it onto the foam. I thought about laying a piece of ply on top until the glue set, but perhaps there's a stretching method that works miles better. I'll have to look it up. The foam kinda waves at you in one of the cabs.
Started a new build this weekend, needed by the 10th of next month. Four TH18s to replace my 'indoor' subs. Power is a CA18 or RMX5050 in 2-channel mode, drivers 18TBW100. The TBW's were actually chosen for a future outdoor rig, which will be in development a while and optimized around those. In the meantime, I need to replace my smaller front loaders which have Kappa P15LF2's in them and they really get pissed and object to that much power. Question is - with the TBW's in the TH18, do I want cone correction or no? I'm getting to the part of the build where I'll need these pieces cut out.
We use a pair of Peavey SP 4G dual 15" towers for tops. They seem to get a little dirty when pushed pretty hard with our XTI2000 (before the limit light illuminates). I'm working on a pair of HS12's right now. Looking forward to a 3-way synergy build sometime after I get some more knowledge under my belt.
