Well ESP why are you talking for crensendo ,do you not know?
Maybe You should start your own thread on cone corrections
So many people come on these threads and don't put up any useful information or help a newbie,but O you should talk to someone over here he has done this,That's a waste of my time in my humble opinion,and drives new people away from DIY.
So you are saying the plans at post 6 are not optimum for this B&C driver because someone did something different,but I got to go ask crensendo to find out,lol
Do me a favor since this is the second time I have asked for help and you replied with nothing, do not reply to anymore of my post,ok? not mad or grudging,just stay away.
Sincerly,
NS
Epa has contributed greatly to the development of DIY TH design on this forum and must of dedicated endless hours to assisting other forum members.
The concept of cone correction is complicated by the fact that If I posted a fully corrected layout I would be posting a very close clone copy of the Danley TH118.
When I first posted up this design I had plenty of time to develop the TH 18. However recenly other work has taken most of my time.
Hopefully I will be able to take some time to go thru the process of developing a cone correction in the next week - I will be recovering from surgery so will have some quiet time.
I have made a couple attempts at developing a cone correction shape and feel I have made enough progress to post up something worthwhile.
However the process is fairly complicated. This is cutting edge stuff for DIY tapped horn design. and it does not come easy.
Regards
Martin (Xoc1)
The concept of cone correction is complicated by the fact that If I posted a fully corrected layout I would be posting a very close clone copy of the Danley TH118.
When I first posted up this design I had plenty of time to develop the TH 18. However recenly other work has taken most of my time.
Hopefully I will be able to take some time to go thru the process of developing a cone correction in the next week - I will be recovering from surgery so will have some quiet time.
I have made a couple attempts at developing a cone correction shape and feel I have made enough progress to post up something worthwhile.
However the process is fairly complicated. This is cutting edge stuff for DIY tapped horn design. and it does not come easy.
Regards
Martin (Xoc1)
Hi ALL
Hi,
I asked for some advice in bass for my soldier and got this?
riginally Posted by noSmoking
Hi Guys,
New to this thread and will read it all before I start asking questions,I am wanting to build a WOW factor set,of subs and the rest on up !
I have 2 B&C Speakers 18PZB100 SUPER 18" 1400W WOOFER on the way !
So any suggestion are always appreciated, AND HELLO to all of you!
Cheers,
NoSmoking( A joke on burning up perfectly good parts,lol)
you better start your own thread.
a th would be a nice wow factor for this speaker. Was this out of line?
That was his responce .....
Maybe I should return to being a lurker ,I seem to cause issues with things ,SO I apologize to all offended,I hope you accept my apologizes.
Hi,
I asked for some advice in bass for my soldier and got this?
riginally Posted by noSmoking
Hi Guys,New to this thread and will read it all before I start asking questions,I am wanting to build a WOW factor set,of subs and the rest on up !
I have 2 B&C Speakers 18PZB100 SUPER 18" 1400W WOOFER on the way !
So any suggestion are always appreciated, AND HELLO to all of you!
Cheers,
NoSmoking( A joke on burning up perfectly good parts,lol)
you better start your own thread.
a th would be a nice wow factor for this speaker. Was this out of line?
That was his responce .....
Maybe I should return to being a lurker ,I seem to cause issues with things ,SO I apologize to all offended,I hope you accept my apologizes.
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Cone correction is very specific to an individual design. Basically the idea is to correct for the volume of air in the cone that is often ignored. Doing so can have large benefits, but can be quite difficult to do correctly. So cone correction for the TH18 belongs in this thread, not some other one. The SS15 has pretty extensive experimentation with it for that design that is documented in that thread, for example.
Often specific design/builds are given their own threads, so as not to hijack someone else's, because they often generate quite a lot of interest off topic. This is why it was requested that you begin your own, epa did not mean that in a bad way, he suggested that because you were more likely to get help in a thread of your own.
Just go easy, it's not that we have something against you, we are genuinely trying to help. If you post specific questions such as yours and you don't get much feedback it is usually because people don't have much experience with that specific item and thus can't offer much help. I've never used the 18PZB100, or done a design for it, so I can't answer your question, but I would bet if you do a bit of digging you can find someone who can be of much greater use.
You can always simulate the drivers response with Hornresp to get an idea of how it will sound. Just try it out, and if it has a bad response try a different enclosure or tweak the design. If it doesn't sim well you could also take a look at the C/E/X (the E stands for epa btw) FT30 design and see if that does better.
Often specific design/builds are given their own threads, so as not to hijack someone else's, because they often generate quite a lot of interest off topic. This is why it was requested that you begin your own, epa did not mean that in a bad way, he suggested that because you were more likely to get help in a thread of your own.
Just go easy, it's not that we have something against you, we are genuinely trying to help. If you post specific questions such as yours and you don't get much feedback it is usually because people don't have much experience with that specific item and thus can't offer much help. I've never used the 18PZB100, or done a design for it, so I can't answer your question, but I would bet if you do a bit of digging you can find someone who can be of much greater use.
You can always simulate the drivers response with Hornresp to get an idea of how it will sound. Just try it out, and if it has a bad response try a different enclosure or tweak the design. If it doesn't sim well you could also take a look at the C/E/X (the E stands for epa btw) FT30 design and see if that does better.
NS
i was i no way dismissing your requests.
i was just trying to point you in the right direction.
cresendo has just finished bilding a th118 with cone corection,so he might have drawings.
atached a sim of the pzb100 in the th118 (grey line)
and the pzb100 in a design i made for kctess.(black line)
edit/ kctess design
i was i no way dismissing your requests.
i was just trying to point you in the right direction.
cresendo has just finished bilding a th118 with cone corection,so he might have drawings.
atached a sim of the pzb100 in the th118 (grey line)
and the pzb100 in a design i made for kctess.(black line)
edit/ kctess design
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To Cresendo
Hi Cresendo,
I have been looking and learning about building X0's Th-18 and understand you have a layout for cone correction,I will be using B&C 18PZB100 and was wondering if you would be so kind as to share your finding and how I should change the cut list as this is new ground,I do ok following a design but not well at doing my own but I am getting more informed from the infomation here at DIYAUDIO !
So Thanks in advance,
NS
Hi Cresendo,
I have been looking and learning about building X0's
Th-18 and understand you have a layout for cone correction,I will be using B&C 18PZB100 and was wondering if you would be so kind as to share your finding and how I should change the cut list as this is new ground,I do ok following a design but not well at doing my own but I am getting more informed from the infomation here at DIYAUDIO !So Thanks in advance,
NS