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#1001 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi again,
And just because it was so much fun, here is a simple cone correction using 1/2" discs (it may be worthwhile to do the math, as every box is different, and every speaker is different too [and your math may be better than mine] :-) ), at least this is one board that doesn't need additional bracing (?): Regards,
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Oliver |
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#1002 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Oliver,
Interesting ,so do you think in the case of using a 18 " speaker that the disks would react differently as apposed to the stub that goes across the whole camber or if the stub was shorter what difference in responce would that have, To all of you guys Nice work on cone corrections ,I am beginning to figure it out ,Got REW setup and working just got to get the hows and whys to correctly figured, to hopefully have a correct response curve,! Have A GREAT Day! ns |
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#1003 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi noSmoking,
Post #1002: "...do you think in the case of using a 18 " speaker that the disks would react differently as apposed to the stub that goes across the whole camber or if the stub was shorter what difference in responce would that have..." If you are refering to the examples I posted in Posts #997 and 1001, I think that the results would be quite similar; they are both examples of "simple cone correction". What Sergey (grec13) indicated in Post #992, and Art (weltersys) pointed out in Post #996 is that there is a difference between what could be called a "V" throat and simple cone correction. Art already gave the reference to Post #528, in Post #546 Djim shows the basic cone volume corrections for both driver sides (you are really looking at correcting volumes as Djim has by now amply demonstrated), then in Post #562 Martin (Xoc1) shows a basic outline for updating the TH18 (and cross-references to the other thread), and it goes on and on, sadly the picture Djim posted in #841 has been removed, but the following discussion pretty much clarifies what is going on, and how important the design integration between driver and enclosure has become in the tapped horn. Anyway, I'm rambling, this is really a remarkable thread, and it's so worth reading carefully. Your measurements of your enclosure with the throat treatment from Post #938 should add to the data, just guessing I would say that you are somewhere between simple cone correction and "V" throat. Regards,
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Oliver |
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#1004 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Oliver,
Well put, I have studied and read all those threads and other info ,I now have a very good Idea of horn corrections to implement in to the camber now,I will do some tests and see what I can get them to do,LOL. Thanks all of you for your time and help! NoSmoking |
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#1005 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
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sergey |
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#1006 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Hi All
First post here and I'd like to start by just saying thanks to all for the contributions to this thread. Its been a fascinating progression to read and has almost convinced me to give the build a try with the latest "Xoc1" V throat additions. I have three questions which Id greatly appreciate a response too: 1. Xoc1 are you planning on updating the original drawings to take "V throat" cone correction into account you illustrated in #990? I don't want to land up cutting and gluing only to find an updated cut sheet is on its way. 2.Is the Beyma 18SW1600ND a suitable driver for this design? http://profesional.beyma.com/pdf/18SW1600NdE.pdf Its the only drive I can source locally with similar specs to the B&C 18SW115. 3. Would 2 x TH18 loaded with the above Beyma driver powered by 1800 watt 4ohms/ch provide more output than 4 x SRX718 powered by the same amp? I have 2 x SRX718's and was about to buy a further two but I can pretty much build the TH18's for the price of two new 718's. The sensitivity of the JBL 2268HPL drive is rather poor though (95db) so I expect the Beyma driver (97db) to be a touch louder regardless of the Tapped Horn benefits. Thanks again for this amazing thread!! Getting quite excited to give this build a try and will be sure to post pictures of the build phases. |
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#1007 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
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I also have read this project and would like to use the Faital Pro 18" woofer can anyone recommend a neo 18" Faital for this project? Thanks!
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#1008 | |
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diyAudio Member
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NOPE, the cook is still cooking. Wait patiently for the final plans to be done. Quote:
I have tried the 15HP1030 on an adapter plate, it works fine up to 1kw.
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Regards, Dan |
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#1009 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thinking about this, just build with the plans in the first post and load the 2268H. That should work out just fine.
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Regards, Dan |
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#1010 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Devon UK
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Maybe I need to sleep. I'm a bit concerned about the 110Hz dip to 96db
BTW this is still with the Precision devices PD1850. Hopefully I haven't made any errors. Its close to the Hornresp response. This version is slightly bigger by an inch front to back - Think that's enough for today Graph attached and text file for the akabak users to play with. Regards Martin (Xoc1) |
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