Looking for subwoofer designs for PA use

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I have read this forum up and down. found some good info for sure. my situation, i have a little cash and i am looking for a design that will out run my current set up. currently, which is nothing special, running 2 peavey SP118X and 2 peavey HC118; large boxes to wrestle and have to be careful on how much power. now, they don't sound half bad with some EQing. size really isn't an issue if i only have to lug around 2 subs instead of 4. driver cost i'd like to keep reasonable, but i know this will make or break a good design.
 
The first question is, is the installation stationary, or it should be portable? What SPL and frequency range do you want from it?

it will be portable. it will be used for live sound (band) so the frequency range can be 45 to say 120. don't know exactly what SPL level. we play a lot of small indoor shows say a couple hundred people. i use QSC RMX2450 amps and a DCX2496 crossover.
 
it will be portable. it will be used for live sound (band) so the frequency range can be 45 to say 120. don't know exactly what SPL level. we play a lot of small indoor shows say a couple hundred people. i use QSC RMX2450 amps and a DCX2496 crossover.
Maybe you could check out the threads about the Jbell SS15 or the smaller Martinsson THAM.

Both are relative: compact, light weight, have extended bandwidth for what you are looking for and both have the advantages of tapped horns (+5dB in sensitivity compared to basreflex). Both designs are proven concepts with a good balance between economics, size and SPL output.

Your QSC RMX2450 delivers 2450Watt at 4ohm bridged so you have to look for drivers that can deal with at least 1200 Watts each and are compatible with one of the designs. In the threads you can find the compatible drivers.
 
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im a huge subwoofer fan, i mean i L.O.V.E. a good sub and clean deep low lows, but some of these designs scare me, they are such complicated builds, any error in construction or design could be catastrophic.

K.I.S.S principle works with all things.

with modern subwoofers having very long throw/excursion, and power being relatively cheap, if i was wanting a portable loud subwoofer for a band id lean towards a simple design with a very good driver/s and lots of power.


for what its worth, i built a karlson sub last week

Karlson Plans

because of,

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/189823-projecting-bass-forward-not-omnidirectional.html

its much better then i thought it would be, and on a stage, you want the bass to go towards the crowd not behind the band.

'tune-able' and simple build :)


in a room/club/dancefloor/ht system lots of 'omni-directional' subs work,

but this karlson design is different.
 
....

with modern subwoofers having very long throw/excursion, and power being relatively cheap, if i was wanting a portable loud subwoofer for a band id lean towards a simple design with a very good driver/s and lots of power.


....

I'd beg to differ. Here's why.

Power Handling Vs. Efficiency

PA Systems

Your carefully tuned bass reflex or whatever cabinet you use is no longer aligned correctly due to the voice coil heating up.

In any case, choose a design that will stress the system as little as possible. When things are pushed to their limits repeatedly, they will break.

Chris
 
i've gotten though maybe half jbell's thread on his SS15s. just real quick seeing how the 3015lf sky rocketed in price, was there another driver for his cabinet? also and this may just be a shot in the dark, how about a tapped horn designed around the peavey lowrider 18. can't remember how efficient this driver is.
 
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valid points no doubt,

i guess the only way id know for sure would be to build and run (carry) 2 systems for a year.

one based on the high efficiency theory, the other on small strong drivers and big power.

and see which stood the test of time.(sound quality, volume, and ease of transport)

typically i dont run any audio stuff at more then about 60% max.


unless im in my van, on a sunny day, feeling rowdy,


that can get loud :D



I'd beg to differ. Here's why.

Power Handling Vs. Efficiency

PA Systems

Your carefully tuned bass reflex or whatever cabinet you use is no longer aligned correctly due to the voice coil heating up.

In any case, choose a design that will stress the system as little as possible. When things are pushed to their limits repeatedly, they will break.

Chris
 
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i've gotten though maybe half jbell's thread on his SS15s. just real quick seeing how the 3015lf sky rocketed in price, was there another driver for his cabinet? also and this may just be a shot in the dark, how about a tapped horn designed around the peavey lowrider 18. can't remember how efficient this driver is.

There are several drivers that work in the ss15. Here's one Eminence Kappa Pro-15LF-2 15" Cast Frame Driver
 
i tweaked the design today for the SS15 to allow for 3/4" material (this is what i have on hand). also can someone check the dimensions and see if there will be issues. i tried to keep as close as possible. will installing grill blocking and blocking for the butterfly latches in the mouth create a problem. i seen this caster board design on speakerforums i liked and wanted to incorporate.

is there any testing information on the kappa pro driver. anyone with personal experience with this driver in this cabinet?
 
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