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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...8/1081060W.PDF
That is the Infinity 1060w specs. A 4 ohm driver with a low qts of .41. Anyways, I am planning on building a PORTED downfiring subwoofer for my bedroom with that woofer. I will not be running a lowpass/crossover. Floor will do that work for me. What drivers would you recommend for such an application. I would them to be under $100. I would go with an Image Dynamics but that is out of budget. Oh and I have modeled this driver in WinISD. 1.5 cubic feet tuned to 31hz is nice and pretty. Thanks - Andrew |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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May I ask why you seem to be set on using car audio drivers for a home sub......as most need the gain of an auto cabin to perform well. Also, not lowpassing (budget?) your future sub is a recipe for a disappointing listening experience IMO. The floor may do "some" filtering, but in essence you'll have a stereo signal coming from your mains......combined with a muffled mono channel, up to the subs' high end cutoff that is. You'll also need some sort of steep (12-24db) high pass, or else you'll blow the sub in a ported box, best case the cone/surround junction will separate. I'd look for a proper home audio sub
Peerless 830668 10" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer
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It is only rarely that one can see in a little boy the promise of a man, but one can almost always see in a little girl the threat of a woman. ~Alexandre Dumas Last edited by steviedon; 25th April 2011 at 12:19 AM. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Well crossovers eat up SO much dang power. And actually my last sub (a dayton Quatro 8) I ran in a vented box with no filter. Sounded fine really.
And that infinity, looking at the specs is a very good driver. I just compared it to a Dayton Classic 10 subwoofer, and it can go much lower in the same size box tuned the same. Even in a box designed right for it, the Dayton still blows it away. And they are the same price. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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What do you intend to power the sub with? A passive sub X-over will rob some power, and is generally a costly endeavor (big caps). Also, any reason why you're set on a 10", a bedroom setup might be fine with an 8"....or even a 6 1/2.
__________________
It is only rarely that one can see in a little boy the promise of a man, but one can almost always see in a little girl the threat of a woman. ~Alexandre Dumas Last edited by steviedon; 25th April 2011 at 12:40 AM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Oh no. I had that dayton 8 in my room. I over designed the box because I was stupid. It was an 8 inch in a ported box tuned to 34hz. It woud hits its xmax due to the box being too big.
Wasnt enough |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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And that peerless has way too high of a VTS for a ported application
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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If you're wanting more and are willing to step up to 12", this would be 1st on MY list for $100.
SW-12B - SW-12B
__________________
It is only rarely that one can see in a little boy the promise of a man, but one can almost always see in a little girl the threat of a woman. ~Alexandre Dumas |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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That is a nice woofer.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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FYI:
The GR_SW-12B in a T-TQWT: b |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Please recommend a 10" subwoofer | okmat | Subwoofers | 18 | 7th May 2010 10:18 PM |
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