Air leak in ss15 TH severely affect output? - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Subwoofers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:02 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Default Air leak in ss15 TH severely affect output?

I just got my 3015lf for the ss15 i built and i fired it up. I wasn't that impressed with it. I cut the hole in the wood to 14" diameter, and as it is now where each bolt hole is, around the mating surface there appears to be a tiny tiny gap. So I don't think that the sub is completely sealed against the baffle.
Any way to fix this? I was thinking cut out a smaller diameter hole on a new board (13.5"?) and glue and screw that to the old one, but I don't know how much that would change the design of the ss15. Any other opinions? Hot glue? I don't want to use a permanent glue on there and get it all over the speaker!
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:04 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
nigelwright7557's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Carlisle, England
Make a new baffle to the correct size.
__________________
PCBCAD50 software. http://www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:05 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
But the new baffle can't just replace the old one, its gunna have to mount on top of it....
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:19 AM   #4
jbell is offline jbell  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
What I do is use 3/8" window and door foam (sticky one side) that you can buy at home depot for about $2. I run a ring all the way around the 3015lf, and cut 45 degree angles so the points overlap. I then mount the driver and run my screws through the foam into the baffle board.

In your case, maybe some 1/2" or 3/4" wide would be appropriate, so that you can make sure your screws go through it, and the foam can make your seal.

Also -- just one of those things you MUST do with 3015lf's is break them in. The spider is really stiff and if you don't, you'll be underwhelmed on first fire up.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:22 AM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Okay thanks a bunch jbell, i mean the gaps are maybe 1-2mm max, so i don't think that i will need more than the 3/8" foam. I will try that out and I will play the speaker for a while to help it break in!
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:25 AM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
when running the foam around the circumference you don't have any problem with it folding/wrinkling up?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 03:05 AM   #7
jbell is offline jbell  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
If you try to stretch the foam, it'll not stay in place -- that's the only problem I have. I put the roll in the middle of the cone, and pull off the backing a few inches at a time and just guide it around the 3015lf, making sure I lay it down without pulling or pushing. (the adhesive is pretty terrible) And once in place - it stays. When you pull your driver down tight it compresses to only a paper thickness at most, but always gives a nice tight seal.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 04:33 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell View Post
If you try to stretch the foam, it'll not stay in place -- that's the only problem I have. I put the roll in the middle of the cone, and pull off the backing a few inches at a time and just guide it around the 3015lf, making sure I lay it down without pulling or pushing. (the adhesive is pretty terrible) And once in place - it stays. When you pull your driver down tight it compresses to only a paper thickness at most, but always gives a nice tight seal.
IMO, instead of putting the foam on the driver, lay it around the hole in the baffle. Place it so that it's overhanging the edge by about 1~2mm.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 01:42 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
I sealed it all off with the foam that worked well but i still feel like something is wrong.... If I sit right in front of the mouth of the horn i get that nice punch and feel in my chest/stomach but stand up and a few feet back and i feel like there is no bass. i'm not testing it outside, i'm inside in a smaller room, so maybe it's reflecting off the walls etc, but still i do not feel like the output is where it should be on this?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd April 2011, 02:57 PM   #10
Dr_EM is offline Dr_EM  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Dr_EM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Swindon
Yes, it's most likely room cancellations in that case. Might take quite some effort to fix though
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leak Delta 70 with MOSFET output stage ashok Solid State 0 16th September 2010 05:15 PM
Leak Stereo 70 output caps suggestion Leolabs Solid State 1 21st January 2010 01:48 PM
Output Transformer Air Gap sousmielie Tubes / Valves 3 25th July 2008 11:28 AM
parts express 500 watt air leak ejn327 Subwoofers 5 25th October 2005 03:54 PM
Source for output air cor output inductor?? sam9 Solid State 7 19th January 2004 02:25 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:57 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2