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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London
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I think the widely held belief is that your main speakers need to reach down to 80hz flat if using one Sub, to avoid directional issues.
What if you were using 2 subs- ie below each speaker? How high could you theoretically go with the x/o |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Geneva, Switzerland
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Surely, if your subs are in the same direction as your principal sound sources all you've got is a three (or four or whatever) way system crossing over at any frequency you choose. The problems of decent transition still exist, but any directional information from the sub is more or less right (oh, all right, if you have the kick drum panned hard to one side the lows will end up central; but back in vinyl days when I did a band with a double kick drum panned wide I had a lf mix control crossing over at 180Hz, to stop the drummer throwing the arm off the turntable, and nobody ever noticed.
The directional thing is more for when you've hidden the sub under the sofa for a vibromassage (or in the water bed, mmmm) and I suspect a lot of the problem is arrival time; it just doesn't feel right for the bass feel to get to you before the ear-collected impact. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London
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Thanks, nice reply! In reality at what HZ does upper bass give way to midrange? 250 hz or so?
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
A horn loaded sub may be a lot more directional at 80 Hz than a front loaded top cabinet. It is more easy to locate the source of sound when the frequency is above 100 Hz, but there is no magic cut off frequency where suddenly location of the source "goes away". Most "subs" are fairly large and heavy, so are put on the floor/ground. The lower the frequency, the longer the wavelength. Longer wavelengths are less affected by audience members standing or sitting in front of them, so we can get away with a steep crossover at around 100 Hz with the subs on the ground. Move the crossover up to around 160 Hz, and vocals will be heard from the bass speakers, if the bass is left on the ground, the vocals will sound "muddy" if people stand in front of the bass bins. If the bass and top cabinets are all elevated above head height, any crossover that works well between low and low mid speakers may be chosen. 200 Hz used to be a common crossover frequency between low and low mid speakers in both front and horn loaded systems. But those low speakers were not called "subs". |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London
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Quote:
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London
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This is a crap sketch of the design.
Its basically a sub/stand with full range speakers above. I wanted a design which doesnt take up space, looks good and sounds decent with 30 hz bass. The stand integrates a transmission line folded in 3 with a 6.5" woofer firing downwards. The 'satellites' which sit on top are full range 3" and the 2.5 litre cabs are suspended by springs within a frame, similar to those old classic microphones. w Last edited by Bill poster; 13th April 2011 at 03:36 PM. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
My system is built on a similar principle, but using tapped horns for bass. It works, and in June it'll be at a meet, so I'll be able to say more than "well, I think it sounds good." Chris
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
In a home listening situation, crossovers above 100 Hz or so are problematic with a tall set up as you sketched, because the low range of vocals and instruments will shift upwards and downwards depending on the pitch (notes) sung or played. This wandering vertical position ruins the stereo locational effect, and makes for an unrealistic stereo “image”. In most music, there is very little vocal information below 80 Hz, the low note on a guitar. Choosing speakers that will allow the subwoofer(s) to be crossed around or below 80 Hz will avoid the wandering image problem. Art |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: London
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Chris wd love to see your design, sounds ace.
Art, thanks again. I didnt think about the cone movement to be honest. Hopefully the spring arrangement will be quite solid, triangulated front to back, so the cab movement will be negligable. I did some research and some of the more modern isolated mics use a kind of elastic cord which is looped around fixings. I wanted to x/o around 120 hz but as I'm choosing either alpair 6 or JXr6's for this build, they can be set lower (I wd have to trim the square frames of the Jordan's to fit). |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Quote:
Elastomeric cord has replaced springs for microphone shock mounts for good reason. Is there any reason other than "looking cool" for the springs (which will resonate and sound like an old spring reverb)? Art |
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