|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto Canada
|
I am setting up a multi use room so i can play movies with a projector, part of the changes will be building a bench in the small bay window, and i am hoping i can use part of the volume below the bench as a subwoofer.
if i use the entire volume i would have about 9 cubic feet. now i would build a box within that space for the speaker and have it as decoupled from the house as possible so probably around 8 cu ft to be safe. I am more about it sounding good at low-medium volume so i do not need a super high power party sub. any suggestions for a driver(s) thats not over $300 and would work nicely in a sealed box that size? (of course i can make the box smaller if necessary but..i think bigger is usually better isnt it I hope i will not need anything more than around 200w to drive it. (usually i do everything with chip amps Last edited by neutron7; 22nd March 2011 at 02:40 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
|
I'm partial to Peerless subs for music but since this is a HT application I would suggest the Dayton RSS315HF-4 as being one of the better choices.
If you can only do one sub I would suggest this driver in a ported enclosure. Solen in Montreal handle these and it will save you a lot in shipping costs to purchase through them rather than to order from the US. Either this sub plate amp or this sub plate amp , also from Solen, would be good matches for that driver If you need a hand figuring out enclosure volume and port size let me know and I'd be happy to help. Last edited by Cokewithlime; 22nd March 2011 at 04:35 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
|
You mention 8 cubic feet, but what dimensions approximately are we taling about? Baffle size and depth maybe?
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto Canada
|
The enclosure is a trapezoid shape, theink of the bottom of a bay window, the largest face of the trapezoid is the baffle, about 67x17" so there is room for 2 or 3 drivers.
I would rather have it sound best for music than for movies. |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Sounds like a good space for a type of bass horn.
Putting the drivers in the face of the 'seat' will require heavy grills (to keep them from being kicked in). |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto Canada
|
I think with a horn it is hard to correct if it does not turn out as expected, and i would have to put a baffle on the horn mouth, or my cat would try and sleep inside it.(and i have no idea how to design one to a custom shape)
Cokewithlime, which peerless 12" would you use for music? |
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Toronto
|
Quote:
If you would really like to get down deep and tight, then I would go with the original Peerless sub that started the XLS line, the Peerless 830500. I would use two of them, they like small enclosures and with the space you have available you would have no problem fitting in two of them in parallel and driving them as a single 4ohm load or even better as separate(stereo) subs. Last edited by Cokewithlime; 22nd March 2011 at 05:20 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Toronto Canada
|
Hmm, the 835017 is actually cheaper for me to buy at parts express + shipping + brokerage, than the Solen price + shipping,
I have been looking at other threads about the 830500 (which appears to only be available at parts express now), and it looks like i could just build 2 and put them in 35L boxes and put them under the bench, or elsewhere in the room if that does not work out (or 1 under there and one somewhere else) built in is nice and all, but once you do it, you are stuck with it. I think i am about to change my mind about the whole idea |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx, USA
|
Quote:
I concur with the poster who said this might work for a bass horn, if you're willing to take the time to design one. If you don't want to deal with a bass horn, I STRONGLY recommend that you consider a push push manifold type subwoofer (some prefer to call it push pull) i.e. opposing drivers in whatever alignment you chose. Two advantages: 1. Vibration and even-order distortion cancellation from drivers firing into and away from the common manifold in unison. 2.The drivers aren't exposed directly to the room. Google for "PPSL" http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1301337
__________________
"Any fool can know. The point is to understand" - Albert Einstein Last edited by zobsky; 22nd March 2011 at 08:57 PM. |
|
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| DCM Time Window rebuild | danclarkwcp | Multi-Way | 83 | Yesterday 12:12 AM |
| DCM Time Window... | HVfanatic | Swap Meet | 0 | 15th January 2011 10:31 PM |
| Dial window | bob91343 | Construction Tips | 4 | 25th November 2010 08:37 AM |
| Window 7 - USB DAC | stroob | Audio Sector | 1 | 10th January 2010 12:54 AM |
| window comparator, with hysteresis | AndrewT | Solid State | 5 | 15th October 2007 04:26 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.16446 seconds (67.72% PHP - 32.28% MySQL) with 10 queries |