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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Quote:
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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LOL! None at all this time
Of course this is all theoretical for the moment. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: .
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I've simmed several 'bow tie' TH's, but never built one...
Let me know if you make saw dust on this. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
I do a lot of car audio, and have always faced a conundrum with horns. Tapped horns offer smooth output, but suffer from too much upper bass in the car. The problem is that you want the response to fall verrrrrrrrry slowly in the car, to complement cabin gain. So the flat smooth response that you get with a TH is great for the house, but a little iffy for the car. (Of course you can just EQ it in the car, and that's exactly what I do.) Front loaded horns work nicely in the car. But the problem that you run into with FLHs is power handling. Unless you drive a van, a single eight is about the biggest you're going to squeeze into the car. Fitzmaurice's autotuba is a good example. If you try to use a ten or a twelve, box size just gets nuts in a hurry. And if you opt to undersize the horn, you might as well just build a bandpass box because the response of a FLH gets really peaky as you undersize it. So your "bowtie tapped horn" is a really nice option. It sacrifices the low frequency output of a conventional TH, but again, that can be a *good* thing once you factor in cabin gain. And the excursion reduction will certainly keep a lot of woofers from exploding. I've attached a quick schematic using the Soundsplinter RLI-P8. Once graph is a TH-Mini style layout, and the other one uses your "bowtie" layout. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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FYI,One more picture to look at...
b |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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