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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Hi, so I have a pretty budget system, a set of Fluance AV-HTB+ and an Onkyo TX-SR304. Well, I managed to pick up a KLH ASW10-120 Sub for $15. Seems to work ok, but reading through many things on the web it seems there is a pretty serious flaw in its plate amp that is a fire hazard...
Obviously that isn't good or something I particularly want to risk so I was wondering if it is a big deal to switch in a new plate Amp, there are Dayton Amps 100w at Parts express for about $100, which is fine seeing as I got the sub so cheap. It wouldn't be a problem modifying the cabinet... Also the sub is kind of large, I wouldn't mind sawing off a few inches whilst I'm at it and adding some bracing etc, Im not too bad at woodworking, but a noob at speaker electronics Opinions? Cheers, Matt |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
This is the sub Amazon.com: KLH ASW10-120 Powered Subwoofer: Electronics and this is the plate amp I'm looking at getting Dayton Audio SA100 100W Subwoofer Amplifier | Parts-Express.com The plate amp is rated at 100W and the old one is 120W. Does this matter. Can you just wire in the amp to the speaker and are good to go? I know this is a noob question but I can't seem to find a yes or no answer to this anywhere... Thanks |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Vermont
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Hello Matt, replacing the existing plate amp in the KLH should be possible, but you want to make sure that the new plate amp is capable of handling the impedance of the woofer that is in the cabinet. There may be a rating of the impedance on the back of the woofer, something like 4 ohms or 8 ohms. If there isn't a rating you can measure the resistance across the input terminals of the woofer, if it reads between 3 and 8 ohms, you should be ok. If for some reason the woofer is a lower impedance than 4 ohms, then you may have an issue. Otherwise, the only issue is any necessary modifications to the enclosure to accomodate the new plate amp. (And don't mess with the size of the enclosure, that will screw up the bass response).
Peace, Dave |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Is that feasible or am I going to screw up the bass response by getting rid of the port and shrinking the enclosure? cheers |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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You won't be sacrificing output so much by sealing the box, but extension. That is of course unless there is a built in EQ curve on the dayton amp....say +6-8 db @ 35ish hz.
For $20 bucks more here's an amp that has a gain circuit and will put out the desired power whether the driver is 4 or 8 ohm. SA-1 - SA-1 With that said, if you're a fairly proficient woodworker a good diy sub can be built for around $200. I only mention it due to the fact you're willing to spend $100 or so to swap the amp........why not build something that meets not only your needs, but makes the higher power happy too? If it's in good shape you might be able to resell it for $150 and partially fund a diy sub.
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