Cube horn design?
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diyAudio Member

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: England
Quote:
 Originally Posted by epa good job how many r u going to bild? oftopic/kan someone take a look here ,i used the same approximation as tb46 suggested for the cubo.
Thanks I'm going to build one more, one for each side.
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diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rotterdam, NL
Quote:
 This can be sigificant when the driver is placed in a narrow part of the horn, but is probably not a problem in Cubo where the driver is placed in either the "back chamber" or the "horn mouth", both of which are generously sized. To try it, work out the profile area (side view) of your chosen driver, then subtract it from either S2 or S4 as appropriate.
I add 200 cm^2 (to 1500 cm^2) for the magnet inside the chamber, and take 200 cm^2 off (1500 cm^2) for the magnet inside the horn/port. This equals to 8 liters of difference in volume for the Vtc.

With the magnet inside the chamber for maximum output or with the magnet inside the horn for lowest extension respectively.

@Boscoe: Glad you like the result. Any plans for the finsih?

Best regards johan
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diyAudio Member

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: England
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Rademakers I add 200 cm^2 (to 1500 cm^2) for the magnet inside the chamber, and take 200 cm^2 off (1500 cm^2) for the magnet inside the horn/port. This equals to 8 liters of difference in volume for the Vtc. With the magnet inside the chamber for maximum output or with the magnet inside the horn for lowest extension respectively. @Boscoe: Glad you like the result. Any plans for the finsih? Best regards johan
Yes I would like to do a thick resistant matt black coating but don't really know how to go about it!
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I thought about it once, but then thought again.

 9th January 2011, 09:22 PM #34 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Rotterdam, NL Can you get hold of Warnex? Two to three layers with a textured roller should do it. Oh, and if you haven't done it already, rounding the corners off with a rounding bit (radius 6 -9 mm/ 1/4"-3/8"). Best regards Johan __________________ Impossibilities we do immediatly, miracles take slightly longer.
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: England
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Rademakers Can you get hold of Warnex? Two to three layers with a textured roller should do it. Oh, and if you haven't done it already, rounding the corners off with a rounding bit (radius 6 -9 mm/ 1/4"-3/8"). Best regards Johan
Okay thanks and yep I will be rounding off the corners.
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I thought about it once, but then thought again.

 10th January 2011, 02:30 PM #36 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Jun 2008 What is that big sticker on the woofer for??? __________________ Regards, Dan
 10th January 2011, 06:39 PM #37 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: England It's just a check from the shop that i brought it from to say it works. __________________ I thought about it once, but then thought again.
 13th August 2011, 09:01 AM #38 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: England Sorry to resurrect an old post but just wondering what makes a cubo not just a tapped horn? __________________ I thought about it once, but then thought again.
 13th August 2011, 09:13 AM #39 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: amsterdam i have not digged in to it,but i would say' nothing'. do you have a speaker in mind? i could try moddeling it for u. __________________ one good thing about music ,when it hit you feel no pain. so hit me with music.
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Devon UK
The difference between the Cubo design and a conventional TH is comparable to the difference between a conventional front loaded horn, and a bandpass horn.
The bandpass horn and the cubo have a compression chamber that allows a lower frequency response with a shorter horn path length.
Attached Images
 Bandpass.jpg (100.2 KB, 311 views)

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