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Old 6th December 2010, 07:28 PM   #51
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Hello,
Cabinet grade ply (pun intended) like Baltic birch is strong and resilient. In terms of vibration isolation and dampening resilient is the other end of the spectrum from what we want, I think. For vibration isolation you can not beat layers of differing density materials. For dampening, materials that have internal friction when they move are preferred. Toss in high density materials into the mix for greater vibration isolation. In the early days, Linkwitz used tar like mastic mixed with sand to coat the inside of his enclosures. Concrete eats vibration.
Here is a idea or recommendation; Try Wounderboard (1/2 inch concrete backing board used in the bath under the tile walls) with a layer of Henerys roof mastic, do this inside the good looking wood box.
What does Carl Weldon The roofing consultant speaker guy think of this?
DT
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Old 6th December 2010, 08:14 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boscoe View Post
I will be using air dried oak (which as been left for a year) for about 30 miles from where I live so it should be all good
The few guys i know who are doing solid are using stuff that has air dried for 50-100 years... and one of the builds by the "local" who uses solid still cracked despite him knowing very well how to work it.

These aren't them but are built from the same (drying since 1908) solid Douglas Fir (a pine species)

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 6th December 2010, 08:29 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DualTriode View Post
Hello,
Cabinet grade ply (pun intended) like Baltic birch is strong and resilient. In terms of vibration isolation and dampening resilient is the other end of the spectrum from what we want, I think. For vibration isolation you can not beat layers of differing density materials. For dampening, materials that have internal friction when they move are preferred. Toss in high density materials into the mix for greater vibration isolation. In the early days, Linkwitz used tar like mastic mixed with sand to coat the inside of his enclosures. Concrete eats vibration.
Here is a idea or recommendation; Try Wounderboard (1/2 inch concrete backing board used in the bath under the tile walls) with a layer of Henery’s roof mastic, do this inside the good looking wood box.
What does Carl Weldon The roofing consultant speaker guy think of this?
DT
All just for fun!
So far i had the best results with MDF combined with ceramic tiles and self adhesive asphalt sheets (on the tiles). The enclosures are very dead and VERY heavy
Next i am willing to try self-adhesive lead plates on the MDF, iv read that Harbeth was/is using this. Anyway, i am almost sure that we should focus much more on the room treatment...
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Old 6th December 2010, 10:37 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by DualTriode View Post
Hello,

What does Carl Weldon The roofing consultant speaker guy think of this?
Cal thinks that certain peel and stick type roofing membranes will help with panel damping but Cal is more interested in decreasing panel size to force the resonances higher making them harder to excite so he uses bracing. He thinks the peel and stick idea might work but he also thinks you will also get some gassing off which may interact adversely with some of the driver adhesives or materials. If you are convinced panel damping is the way to go he recommends you look at some of the peel and stick type linoleum floor tiles as a place to start.
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Old 6th December 2010, 10:52 PM   #55
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Tony thinks
that thickness ,damping and material should follow some natural rules .
Tony thinks That a 3" driver needs something a little bit stronger than cardboard ,and depending on the force of the driver (may be with you )
the cabinet should be treated consequently.
Tony thinks of aluminium baffle bur they are too expensive and common steel is too heavy ...
PLywood
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Old 6th December 2010, 11:04 PM   #56
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Tony thinks of aluminium baffle bur they are too expensive and common steel is too heavy ...
Aluminum is not all that expensive... steel is magnetic. I avoid even steel screws to fix the driver in place.

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Old 6th December 2010, 11:04 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
Cal thinks that certain peel and stick type roofing membranes will help with panel damping but Cal is more interested in decreasing panel size to force the resonances higher making them harder to excite so he uses bracing. He thinks the peel and stick idea might work but he also thinks you will also get some gassing off which may interact adversely with some of the driver adhesives or materials. If you are convinced panel damping is the way to go he recommends you look at some of the peel and stick type linoleum floor tiles as a place to start.
Hello Cal,
I will not call you Carl any more.
I have used vinyl floor tile even lead backed gypsum wall board but not single ply HPG roofing.
TX DT
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Old 6th December 2010, 11:35 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picowallspeaker View Post
...on the force of the driver (may be with you )
Strong in this one the force is. Yes!

Who the ***k is Tony BTW?

Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
I avoid even steel screws to fix the driver in place.

Aren't most of those speakers you use stamped steel frame?

Last edited by MJL21193; 6th December 2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 6th December 2010, 11:38 PM   #59
evanc is offline evanc  United States
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There is a lot I don't know about, but wood is something I do know about. Use Baltic birch or apple ply(same thing made in America). you could laminate this to mdf if you want to combine the properties. unibond from vacuum pressing systems is very good glue for laminating. For backed veneer try veneer supplies.com or formwood. Both sell the same 2ply wood veneer which is great. I would not laminate panels without a vacuum bag...Talk to a local cabinet shop. have fun....Evan
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Old 7th December 2010, 12:35 AM   #60
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Only the Fostex are, the Mark Audio have plastic baskets, most of the rest are aluminum alloy.

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