Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Decware "House Wrecker" driver selection
Decware "House Wrecker" driver selection
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 27th November 2010, 04:30 PM   #11
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Originally Posted by MaVo View Post
"Forget about bandpasses if you c/o low, they are waste of time and space."


Because as you go up in frequency a drivers maximum volume increases
dramatically. Bandpasses increase maximum volume at the upper point,
only really useful for small drivers and crudely implement the top end
roll-off, often with severe port and box resonances. IMO with a decent
driver the extra front volume of a bandpass is a waste of space and time.

If you actually c/o lower than the front lowpass then its presence
becomes even more pointless, it simply doesn't do anything useful.

rgds, sreten.

Last edited by sreten; 27th November 2010 at 04:35 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2010, 05:06 PM   #12
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
Originally Posted by Jockeylad View Post
I already have amplified subs and they're pretty good, but in order to get subs of any real decent quality I'll have to spend minimum £600+ each, and this can go up into the £thousands. I occasionally, when the wife and children are out, like listening to my favourite tracks pretty loud, and find that by using subs for the bottom end, I can ease up on the bass on my mains. I listen to all kinds of music, sometimes loud sometimes low and chilled, but I like knowing I have the flexibility. I also use them as part of my HT setup.
The main thing is that I'm well capable and up for the challenge of building them, but apprehensive about getting it wrong design/performance wise, and subsequently feeling deflated with my efforts. I am willing to give it a go, and thats why I'm on here asking for advice from people who may be able to help me avoid simple school boy errors.
So, based on my original post, I'm after design ideas that will give good smooth n distorted response down to 18Hz'ish. Any advice is appreciated and will be looked into.
By the way sreten, thanks for the link to the Dayton's they do look as though they are what I'm after.

All I can say about subs are 4 things :

1) All that matters is clean displaced volume.

2) Given the above they can be EQ'd to any response.

3) given 1), the smaller the box the more amplifier power is needed.

4) Vented gives a +6dB boost to maximum very low bass levels.
(Compared to two sealed, this gives +6dB at all frequencies.)
The two approaches use ~ exactly the same box volumes.

IMO a near optimum set up would be two subwoofers, each with
two drivers on opposite faces for force cancelling, one placed
about ~2/3 along the side wall, the other the opposite ~1/3
along the rear wall, assuming floor and next to wall placement.

The size of the boxes and the drivers is related to wanted
maximum extension and maximum volume. There is no point
building a small subwoofer that goes down to 18Hz, simply
put it won't play loud enough to ever hear the 18Hz in
the presence of normal program material.

The lower you want to go, the bigger you need to think.

rgds, sreten.

Last edited by sreten; 27th November 2010 at 05:10 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2010, 05:25 PM   #13
Reeler is offline Reeler  Spain
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Now in Barcelona
Hi Jockeylad, and welcome.

I'm not an engineer or bass builder but my experience can point you to a Spanish company "Beyma". Beyma Professional Loudspeakers
They have a distributor based in London... LMC Audio Systems

I am not affiliated to either company....but I AM biased towards Beyma as I currently use a pair of 12LX60 drivers for my bass in a stereo system. I used to want low low bass, in the way of subwoofer, but I find that these Beymas 'quiver my liver' enough when listening to loud.

Cinema might be a different thing.
Most folk have their ears painted on!
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2010, 06:10 PM   #14
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
diyAudio Moderator
planet10's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Decware "House Wrecker" driver selection
Originally Posted by sreten View Post
IMO a near optimum set up would be two subwoofers, each with
two drivers on opposite faces for force cancelling
Geddes & Toole would want to see more, but i am 110% with sreten on a minimum of 2, each with push-push drivers.

I am currently stuggling a bit with the aesthetics of my push-push pair of sealed CSS SDX10 boxes.

Click the image to open in full size.

community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th November 2010, 06:42 PM   #15
mymindinside is offline mymindinside  India
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Has anyone built/heard Wayne Parham's 3pi subwoofer?
it is a compact vented design using the lab12 driver. it got my attention because it is so modestly sized and yet is supposed to extend quite low (the pi speakers website says that it 'extends' below 20hz but does not specify wether it is f3 or f10)
haven't been able to find much about it on diyaudio so any impressions are welcome

this is a link to the pi speakers website where the 3 pi sub is also sold as a finished product: 3pi sub

  Reply With Quote
Old 9th December 2010, 05:40 PM   #16
Jockeylad is offline Jockeylad  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
I Have decided to downsize from 15" to a couple of Eminence Lab12 drivers, then build box/es to suit, as they are readily available, not too expenesive and have good reviews. They also seem to meet my requirements. I'll keep you updated on any progress, but may start a new thread when I do. Glad I ditched the idea of the Decware 'House Wrecker', as I would probably have been more of a 'Time n Budget Wrecker'!

Thanks again for the previous info.
  Reply With Quote


Decware "House Wrecker" driver selectionHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to put 10" Audio Nirvana drivers in 8" speakers designed by Decware? hebrer Full Range 2 16th August 2010 11:13 PM
What makes an amplifier "bright", "warm", or "neutral"? JohnS Solid State 51 13th December 2009 06:42 PM
Some 8"/5"/4" driver DIY...... India sumit Full Range 8 18th November 2009 10:26 AM
"This Old House" gets trumped jackinnj The Lounge 4 20th September 2009 07:30 PM
Best Value 8",10" or 12" Driver cj.9 Subwoofers 15 8th December 2004 10:28 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:02 PM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.79%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio