8" or 10" sub driver to go with computer speakers, music only, sealed cabinet. - diyAudio
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Old 9th November 2010, 08:35 AM   #1
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Default 8" or 10" sub driver to go with computer speakers, music only, sealed cabinet.

I am looking to make a sub for my upcoming desktop computer based music system. I have already purchased the foster amp. Specs are 85w at 8 ohms and 110w at 4 ohms, Hpf at 29hz. I am looking for a sub driver for this. My room size is about 15x12. This will be used solely for music, no movies or games. This is for nearfield, I will be sitting about 3ft from the speakers and about 4-5 ft from the sub.

I am yet to decide on the main speakers. I will probably go with some full ranger (have never tried it) and if needed add some tweeter and cross very high. The amp will probably be the topping tp20 or some cheap used amp, it gives about 7 clean watts into 8 ohms.

I would prefer a sealed sub. I think the outer dimensions I would prefer are somewhere around 0.75-1cuft. Can go little bit over the limits also if that’s what stands in the way of a great sub. I think I would prefer a 8” or max 10” sub. Which one is better for my needs. My budget for this is around 65 bucks, lesser the better as I can use the savings to get better speaker drivers. Sound quality and good integration with the speakers are more important than SPL and low end extension. If it can do around 35hz at -3db, that would be fine.

How good are woofers and car audio subs for a music sub driver. I see these being cheaper than similar regular subwoofers.

Here are some of the possible options I saw on PE, madisound, ebay etc, tons of them and I am totally confused as to which one to use. Please suggest a good driver, feel free to suggest outside of this list.

MCM 55-2421
Dayton SD215 and 315
Dayton Quattro 8 and 10
Dayton classic
Dayton RS270S-8
Peerless 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer
Peerless SLS 830668 10" Woofer
Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer
Tang Band W6-1139SI
JL Audio 10W0v2-4 W0v2 and 8W1v2-4 etc on ebay and other sites
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Old 9th November 2010, 09:51 AM   #2
djk is offline djk
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"Can go little bit over the limits also if that’s what stands in the way of a great sub. "

1.2 cu ft (12.75" cube internally)

SW-12B - SW-12B
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Old 9th November 2010, 10:10 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djk View Post
"Can go little bit over the limits also if that’s what stands in the way of a great sub. "

1.2 cu ft (12.75" cube internally)

SW-12B - SW-12B
thanx, but way over budget, 12" wont do. I am in india and a friend will bring it for me and most probably he'll crib about bringing a 12". Also isnt a 12 incher a bit too big for small desktop speakers. I probably wont be using most of the features it has. 16mm xmax, Fs 18hz (amp has a hpf at 29hz). 200w pe, amp can put out just 110w at 4 ohms.
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Old 9th November 2010, 09:53 PM   #4
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I'll endorse the 1139. Although I've implemented it in a tapped horn http://www.volvotreter.de/downloads/...z_TH_Rev_1.pdf It's a solid performer, should work well sealed. The 740p looks impressive for about the same coin.
Generally speaking car subs don't translate well to home use. Most have poor sensitivity with very tight suspensions and heavy cones, and require the cabin gain of a car to get the lowest extension. In short, a car sub will require more power than you have available to get good output.

Last edited by steviedon; 9th November 2010 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 10th November 2010, 01:19 AM   #5
blamus is offline blamus  United States
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the 1139 can do sealed but will need eq, down low, and you would be wasting its potential because its soooooooooooooooooooo good ported in about 0.4cft. Many good designs with the 1139 out there.
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Old 10th November 2010, 01:33 AM   #6
bjorno is offline bjorno  Sweden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doors666 View Post
..I would prefer a sealed sub. I think the outer dimensions I would prefer are somewhere around 0.75-1cuft.. If it can do around 35hz at -3db, that would be fine...
Hi doors666,

Do your own DIY-calculations for T/S parameters that would suit your requirements and then look for drivers within your budget. See the picture hints:

b
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File Type: gif f-3dB-and-closed-box-volume-chosen.GIF (21.8 KB, 320 views)
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Old 10th November 2010, 11:05 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by bjorno View Post
Hi doors666,

Do your own DIY-calculations for T/S parameters that would suit your requirements and then look for drivers within your budget. See the picture hints:

b
Thats a lot of work, I would rather find out good drivers in my budget and then model them in winisd, no time or patience for hand calculations

The bigger issue is that the modeling doesnt tell the whole story. Two drivers costing 20$ and 200$ might model very similar, but its their sound quality that is not being shown by the model and thats where I need your help. In a small budget like mine, there will be tons of bad drivers and a few gems and I need to identify those.

How well do the woofers work in sub applications. I see some good ones going relatively cheaper. dayton reference 8 and 10 woofers are going for less than 60, but similar subs are going for above 100. Are these any good for sealed musical subs? Lots of other good woofers too.
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Old 10th November 2010, 02:02 PM   #8
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I have both the TB's, 1139 and 740. If they are the same price go for the 740, no question.
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Old 25th November 2010, 01:24 PM   #9
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hi guys,

PE is having a sale on all tang bands. now i can afford all the three of them. 1139, 740 and 1363. Which one should I go for. looks like most of these are better with ported, so I will probably have to go for a ported design. Dayton RS210 also might have some discount during black friday and might come in my budget. Which one should I go for guys?

thanx
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Old 25th November 2010, 03:17 PM   #10
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Hi,

Port sizes can be a big issues in small boxes, may need a PR.

The 8" Quattro seems ideal for your original spec, good price too.

rgds, sreten.
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