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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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SWMBO needs a small passive sub-woofer for the computer
( I have a convert ) I am looking for something affordable ( We are renovating ) with dual 8 Ohm voice coils, in Melbourne if possible, specs are not important and we would be happy with anything around 250 - 350mm. This will be for a first order low pass so smooth on the top end would be better and early roll-off an advantage. I have had success with cheap Tandy woofers for this application but they are long gone
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Yeah, I made many dozens of great bang-buck party/rock speakers with RS (Tandy) drivers way back when, but the closest I've seen to them recently are the GRS series in the latest PE Sale catalog.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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As long as you're not driving with a bridge-style amplifier, a single voice-coil driver may be used as well.
The grounds for the main left and right speakers are tied together and run to the hot of the subwoofer. The ground of the subwoofer is returned to amplifier ground. A series crossover is used, a single cap is in parallel with the woofer, and inductor is in parallel with each main speaker. The woofer should be selected to be about 3dB more efficient than the main speakers, ie: an 87dB woofer with 84dB mains.
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Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Would you set the XO in a similar region??
Diagram for clarification please, I'm not to hot with series XOs
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
amp L+ goes to L+ of L speaker, amp R+ goes to R+ of R speaker. speaker L- and R- are commoned. Each speaker has an inductor in parallel. speaker L-/R- goes to S+ of the subwoofer. S- of the subwoofer goes to amp L-/R- whioch should be common. The subwoofer has a capacitor in parallel. Its fairly safe as long as low bass is effectively mono. Another option is a version of bridged mode, one channel is inverted and one speaker connected in reverse phase, both connected with series capacitors. The sub with a series inductor is connected across L+ and R+, this is more bombproof. Though TBH using a 2.1 plate amplifier is by far the easiest, e.g. : Dayton MCA2550D 2.1 Channel Class D Amplifier | Parts-Express.com rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Well if I was able to repair my cheap active sub that's what I would be using; just that we have other financial constraints ATM, renovations always take priority.
When we start on the lounge room extension maybe I'll get room for some IB subs. SWMB Obeyed wont allow yet another amplifier until we get the work finished
__________________
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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"Another option is a version of bridged mode, one channel is inverted
and one speaker connected in reverse phase, both connected with series capacitors. The sub with a series inductor is connected across L+ and R+, this is more bombproof." Yes, this is also common practice. In this case the sub should be 3dB less sensitive than the mains (because it receives a +6dB signal due to bridging). For PA with 99dB mains: ![]() Series version:
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Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Norlane; Geelong: Victoria: Australia
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Thanx for the replies and help.
I found a pair of these on ebay USA postage would be much more tha woofers would be worth but these are very good drivers for my desired application, I used 3 of the 8 inch version in parallel for my sons R&R box Radio Shack 40-1349 Subwoofer 10" Dual Voice-Coil 120-W - eBay (item 160509388638 end time Nov-28-10 07:53:39 PST) Now if only I could find some in OZ
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QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING" |
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#9 |
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Sound with Style
diyAudio Member
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I have one of those Radio Shack 12in still in it's box
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Australian Frugel horns and flat pack kits now available at http://www.soundwithstyle.com.au |
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#10 | |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Passive subs suck, surely you can find a used active sub for the same or less than what it costs to build a passive one?
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www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| how big of a sealed box will this woofer need ? | zuki | Subwoofers | 7 | 2nd May 2006 06:16 AM |
| Question about Qtc and sealed woofer box sizes | mazeroth | Multi-Way | 12 | 3rd December 2004 08:49 AM |
| what size sealed or ported box can this woofer use ? | zuki | Multi-Way | 2 | 23rd November 2004 02:20 AM |
| 38 cm. woofer in a sealed box, any experience? | giolight | Multi-Way | 6 | 9th December 2002 11:35 PM |
| sealed woofer box | giolight | Multi-Way | 0 | 2nd April 2002 09:06 PM |
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