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Old 28th October 2010, 09:11 PM   #1
jschweg is offline jschweg  United States
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Default Help/Evaluation of first sub build

This is going to be my first build ever, and need a little advice on the enclosure and port tuning since I don't really want to do a sealed box. I'm learning as I go along here so bear with my uneducated questions.

I've decided on the Peerless XLS series for the driver, here are the specs:
http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/264-1116s.pdf

Powered by an apex senior plate amp here:
The Apex Junior Subwoofer Amp

Driver puts out 150RMS/300Max, so I figure the 250 Watt @ 8ohms from the apex senior should be good.

The driver specs say Vas is 139.2 Liters, so if I convert that to cubic feet, that's about 5. That being said, I need to build an enclosure that is equal to 5 cubic feet right?

Now concerning the port tuning, this is where I'm starting to get a little lost. This is going to basically be an average HT sub, from what I've been reading online tuning it to like 30 or 35hz would probably be the best? That being said, I need some help figuring out the port diameter and length.

Do I at least look like I'm on the right track here. Thanks in advance.
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Old 29th October 2010, 05:01 PM   #2
jschweg is offline jschweg  United States
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I found the application notes from the Tymphany on building a compact ported box for this sub, but 40 liter is pretty small and can easily go larger than this especially since the port length would be a big pain in a box this small.

Total volume: 40 litre
Port diameter: 90 mm (double flared recommended)
Port length: 510 mm
Tuning frequency: 30 Hz

Last edited by jschweg; 29th October 2010 at 05:04 PM.
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Old 30th October 2010, 08:27 AM   #3
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschweg View Post
That being said, I need to build an enclosure that is equal to 5 cubic feet right?
Depends on who you ask and/or what tuning (Fb) you want. Lots of options with vented alignments with just as many opinions.

For HT, some movies have enough LFE output to need huge sub systems driven with kilowatts to get all the movie's sonic experience, so for a less serious HT, sealed or 4th order band-pass (BP) is theoretically the best overall.

The majority of the LFE's high power output is above 20 Hz though, so a ~14-20 Hz tuning depending on the allowable $$$/space/WAF budget is what some folks opt for. These typically require high pass filters to protect the drivers below tuning.

Drivers with a low mass:compliance ratio (low Fs, Vas) require long vents to make up for not needing much back box air compliance, so using passive radiators (preferably two to ~cancel out their strong vibrations) as a vent substitute is the norm, though morphing the box/long vent into one big, folded up reverse tapered vent (aka TQWT) has been gaining acceptance in recent years as well as its tapped variants.

This particular driver has a high inductance (Le), so has a rolled off response below ~100 Hz, so while this lower tuning is preferred overall, it pretty much needs to be corner loaded.

The higher tuning OTOH yields a worthwhile increase from ~30-60 Hz where a lot of high output LFE is due to many commercial cinemas being somewhat BW limited, so probably the best compromise for you at least for now. 40 L/18 Hz (yellow trace), 40 L/28.8 Hz tuning based on the 90 mm/510 mm vent (green trace).

This vent has such a high vent mach (friction restriction) that flaring isn't going to lower it enough to ensure it won't 'chuff' if it's 'told' to do a sustained high power LFE, so ideally either a PR should be used or step up to some form of TL loading if a ~2-4x larger cab is acceptable which also nets you either a higher dynamic headroom (peak SPL) and/or allow a lower tuning.

GM
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Old 3rd November 2010, 03:47 AM   #4
jschweg is offline jschweg  United States
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Thanks for your post, this is great information. I've been reading it and playing with WinISD. I've been looking at some other Peerless drivers and found this one which is better quality and 4 ohms, which will get me more power from my plate amp.

Peerless 835017 XXLS 12" Aluminum Cone 4 ohm

If I do this:

3.3 cubic foot box (18W/29.25H/10.97D)
(1) 3 inch dia, 8 inch long vent (tuned to 23hz)

The frequency response looks real flat.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 05:00 AM   #5
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You should move up to at least a 4" precision port - with the 3" port, your port air velocity is way high - ie it will chuff and you will be very unhappy with the LFE performance.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 05:03 AM   #6
GM is offline GM  United States
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You're welcome!

WinISD or the Pro version? The latter is more accurate. Anyway, again, the vent is way too small/short, so it may audibly chuff if much power hits it around/at tuning, not to mention it won't hit the peak SPL that the sim predicts.

I'm guessing that you're not seeing this because you're not inputting the amp's power in the SIGNAL tab which has a 1 W default setting.

Don't know about the plain version, but in the Pro version you can change the plot values, so to easily see if the vent's large enough, right click on the REAR PORT-AIR VELOCITY plot and in OPTIONS, GRAPH, change the END to 17.00 m/sec. Now, if the plot goes off screen you know it's too small.



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Old 3rd November 2010, 01:59 PM   #7
jschweg is offline jschweg  United States
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WinISD originally gave me an optimal port diameter of 4 inches, only reason why I changed it was because at 4 inches, the port needs to be 15.5 inches long.

This brings me to hopefully my last question.

WinISD gave me the following for the optimal box dimensions:

18W/29.25H/10.97D

Now since the depth is only 10.97, I can't fit a 15 inch vent on the same side as the driver. As long as I keep to the same box volume, can I change the dimensions around? Or maybe put the port on the side of the box where I have 18 inches? Or maybe I can do 2 port tubes and plug that into WinISD?

Last edited by jschweg; 3rd November 2010 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 02:24 PM   #8
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi,

Those dimensions look like inside dimensions without consideration for driver, port, bracing and anything else you may want to stick in there. Dual ports are fine, square ports work too.

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Old 3rd November 2010, 03:25 PM   #9
jschweg is offline jschweg  United States
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Correct on the question of dimensions. Additional space will need to be allocated for the materials/bracing/driver.

Could I take like 8 inches off the height, and just add that into the depth?

Not really sure how critical the WinISD "optimal dimensions" are if the cubic foot is the same.
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Old 3rd November 2010, 03:51 PM   #10
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi,

Subwoofers seem to work just fine even as cubes. The wavelength are way too long to worry about internal standing waves. You have a great deal of freedom as to the shape of the box.

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