I am in the process of building 2 x Tham 15's and It seems with the supply chain issues and high cost of freight, it is very difficult to get hold of B&C 15 TBX 100's which are the recommended driver. The SB Audience NERO-15SW800 are available here in Australia but before I spend the money, can anyone give me advice on whether they will work ok. If not, what are the specifications in the B&C that I would need to find a match for?
I have also been offered a pair of Pyle Pro PDW15125's at a good price - would these work?
https://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/pdw15...ofer?msclkid=f3f45602ab2911ec8b67c48c28cbbc99
I have also been offered a pair of Pyle Pro PDW15125's at a good price - would these work?
https://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/pdw15...ofer?msclkid=f3f45602ab2911ec8b67c48c28cbbc99
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Thanks for your view. It looks like the SB Audience Nero is the way to go.
This is great information and gives me the confidence to go ahead and buy a pair of the SBA's
Thanks so much
I once made a single cabinet that could be configured in multiple ways, namely a front loaded horn and a tapped horn hybrid, with the exact same horn and chamber (plus something that resembles some of the paraflex designs I've seen). The tapped horn hybrid blew the front loaded horn out of the water. I think that, as size increases, the tapped horn will (more and more) resemble a rear loaded horn, to the point that the 'tap' might actually introduce some negative effects.
Meaning as size increases, the tapped horn effect decreases. However, as long as it is an one person lift and for 100 Hz and below, output wise I will bet on the tapped horn.
Meaning as size increases, the tapped horn effect decreases. However, as long as it is an one person lift and for 100 Hz and below, output wise I will bet on the tapped horn.
Thank you for your answers. Would it be possible to plan building a 1x15¨ driven TH similar to the very well known one from a ¨horn guru Tom¨, but not as big/heavy as that one and without a need for too much power (no 145dB peaks, not even 135dB peaks... about 125 to max. 128 dB would suffice - for club medium-hard-medium-soft rock band with 150 to 300 people in the club audience), and not too much efficiency... but, rather, with a frequency response that would enable reproduction of a bass guitar E-string (frequency of 41,5 Hz) and not deeper than that, and up to X-over frequency of about 165 Hz in the upper end for the frequency range? TH should be as light as possible (no heavy boxes) with Neodymium driver, most likely Faital Pro 15FX600. Any response and cooperation is welcome. I am a Sound Engineer, Electrical Engineer and have built my own designed front-loaded hyperbolic horn, some years ago, driven by 1x 15¨ JBL speaker.
"with a frequency response that would enable reproduction of a bass guitar E-string (frequency of 41,5 Hz) and not deeper than that, and up to X-over frequency of about 165 Hz in the upper end for the frequency range"
Not with any TH I know. You're better off with an MLTL design which will provide that bandwidth, albeit with a smaller box and reduced efficiency.
Not with any TH I know. You're better off with an MLTL design which will provide that bandwidth, albeit with a smaller box and reduced efficiency.
Greetings, THANKS! OK, fine, I wish to start my ¨learning curve¨ on MLTL enclosures. In order not to hi-jack this thread that deals with TH, I wander if anyone could point me to a thread on this forum, where I could learn and join in learnin/discussing about building an MLTL enclosure driven by 1x 15¨ speaker, intended for LIVE ROCK MUSIC BAND PERFORMANCE (in other words, not for Hi-Fi enthusiasts and such) for audiences in clubs capacity 150 to 300 people (meaning, max. SPL would not need to be higher than 125 dB peaks... since reverberation field commences 4 to 6 meters infront of enclosures in bass region anyway in closed spaces).
By the way, I just noticed a giant work that member Steele performed here. I also saw and downloaded his three Excell spreadsheets about MLTL (which of the three versions could be best for the type of use I described: MLTL, MLTL-2, MLTL-3?). About 20 years ago I have also written a spreadsheet for front loaded hyperbolic bass horn... and built 16 bass horns driven by 1x 15¨ JBL speakers. That time I communicated with Mr. Danley...
Just a qucik one (... while he is away... The Who ;-) ): What should be favorable T/S parameters of one professional Neodymium 15¨ live PA type speaker?
Finally, is there an MLTL thread where Mr. Steele participates, since I always liked talking to gurus ;-) It is most rewarding, in this life...
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I just re-drafted the THAM15 stock plans in cad. Im finding that if I use the 3 degree angle at the speaker baffle / mouth, then the internal horn positioning dimensions are off.
The angle would need to be 92.6 degrees to get the internal dims to be closer. Of course I realize that 92.6 degrees is kind of a ridiculous measurement IRL with a table saw, but that angle justifies the whole internal structure. and it makes me wonder if the sound will be off or if im splitting hairs.
Im CNC dado-ing the side panels to accept the internal horn baffles, So I need it to be pretty spot on.
I guess the question is: has anyone run into this? and should I favor the internal horn baffle placement dims over that tricky 3+- degree angle?
The angle would need to be 92.6 degrees to get the internal dims to be closer. Of course I realize that 92.6 degrees is kind of a ridiculous measurement IRL with a table saw, but that angle justifies the whole internal structure. and it makes me wonder if the sound will be off or if im splitting hairs.
Im CNC dado-ing the side panels to accept the internal horn baffles, So I need it to be pretty spot on.
I guess the question is: has anyone run into this? and should I favor the internal horn baffle placement dims over that tricky 3+- degree angle?
i ran into the same issue on the mth30's i built, i ended up not cutting any angles and just aligning the pieces of wood so the distance between the driver baffle and the bottom was according to plan. This obviously creates a small gap between the driver baffle and front piece but i just filled that in with glue, worked out fine.
Yes, there are many plans that have been rounded to the nearest whole degree.
Favor the internal horn baffle placement dimensions.
"In real life" you cut the baffle at 87 degrees, or 87.4 degrees, or whatever your saw says it should be to line up the edge.
See post #4 here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...o-cut-a-3-degree-chamfer.385178/#post-6999327
You can compare and contrast these enclosures with the roar or any similar. .
first using a different method that spaces the driver specifically away from the first closed end and then subsequently it’s gonna have pipe segments not flared segments there after.
End up seeing that there is more gain in Pipe strategically than there is in the flare rate concept trying to abbreviate the whole thing but actually wasting it to a different result instead.
Horn response has changed. you can take any current design and tweak it and see and improve it now . Oto be able to see both sides of the driver now completely on both sides of the cone.
Not just one side , that’s previous as in ‘TH’ mode
Wwhat you can do (see) with a closed end or end of an upstream section dropping onto the driver in the finalsection of these as well. Whether or not you always wanna bulkhead before changing direction no matter what including the exit.
I guess that’s kind of hard to explain, Need a picture or two
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