Designing Box

lamsv · 4th September 2010, 05:39 PM

In the past, upon buying a new subwoofer I have always just built boxes recommended in the owner's manual. This time around I decided to try my hand and crunching the numbers myself. The driver in question is a JL Audio 10W3V3-4 which will be going into the trunk of my Q45.

I downloaded the free version of winisd and set out to design a box. Based on the parameters of the speaker, winisd showed that a ported box would work best. Unfortunately, it is a rather large box. Just over 2 cubic feet tuned to 26hz.

Next, I tried to see how it would perform in a sealed box. Winisd suggested a box just under 1 cubic feet. Problem is, the F3 is 46hz, which seems rather high.

This leaves me with 2 questions. First, concerning the ported box: Can I fudge the volume? For instance, can I design a 1 cubic foot box tuned to what ever frequency I want? Will the speaker then in turn perform in said box?

Second, with a F3 of 46 hz, I am scared the sealed box won't perform to my liking. A friend, though, said that in a car, cabin gain will bump my low end response, shifting the F3 to around 25hz. He himself says he shoots for an F3 of 45 hz for a car situation. Is this true?

I have spent the last couple weeks surfing this website and have found a WEALTH of great information.Thanks for any help you can lend me!

-Seth

chlorofille · 4th September 2010, 06:04 PM

Hi Seth, the cabin with contribute quite a significant low bass gain. For fast, musical bass I suggest you go for a 1 cubic feet closed enclosure. That size models perfectly too in Bass Box Pro. (enclosure simulation)

lamsv · 4th September 2010, 06:32 PM

I am leaning towards the sealed enclosure, if only because of its smaller size (Q45, for a big car, does not have a big trunk).

Another question. I have a couple options for amps to power the sub. Both amps have a bass boost centered at 45hz. Will this hurt or help the low end response... or just create a bump in the frequency curve that is not good for the overall sound?

chris661 · 4th September 2010, 09:49 PM

Nah, leave bass boost switched off. If you can up the size of the cabinet a little (stuffing would help), you can get a shallower roll-off, which will complement the cabin gain better.

When you have it built, then play around with eq and things.

lamsv · 5th September 2010, 04:37 PM

I have a couple 1lb bags of Acousta-Stuf that I will be using. I think I will be going through with the design at this point. From all I've read and heard, this design should work well in my car.

Thanks for the input!

4th September 2010, 05:39 PM	#1
lamsv diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010	Designing Box In the past, upon buying a new subwoofer I have always just built boxes recommended in the owner's manual. This time around I decided to try my hand and crunching the numbers myself. The driver in question is a JL Audio 10W3V3-4 which will be going into the trunk of my Q45. I downloaded the free version of winisd and set out to design a box. Based on the parameters of the speaker, winisd showed that a ported box would work best. Unfortunately, it is a rather large box. Just over 2 cubic feet tuned to 26hz. Next, I tried to see how it would perform in a sealed box. Winisd suggested a box just under 1 cubic feet. Problem is, the F3 is 46hz, which seems rather high. This leaves me with 2 questions. First, concerning the ported box: Can I fudge the volume? For instance, can I design a 1 cubic foot box tuned to what ever frequency I want? Will the speaker then in turn perform in said box? Second, with a F3 of 46 hz, I am scared the sealed box won't perform to my liking. A friend, though, said that in a car, cabin gain will bump my low end response, shifting the F3 to around 25hz. He himself says he shoots for an F3 of 45 hz for a car situation. Is this true? I have spent the last couple weeks surfing this website and have found a WEALTH of great information.Thanks for any help you can lend me! -Seth

4th September 2010, 09:49 PM	#4
chris661 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Sheffield Blog Entries: 8	Nah, leave bass boost switched off. If you can up the size of the cabinet a little (stuffing would help), you can get a shallower roll-off, which will complement the cabin gain better. When you have it built, then play around with eq and things. __________________ "Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html

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4th September 2010, 06:04 PM	#2
chlorofille diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Christchurch	Hi Seth, the cabin with contribute quite a significant low bass gain. For fast, musical bass I suggest you go for a 1 cubic feet closed enclosure. That size models perfectly too in Bass Box Pro. (enclosure simulation)

4th September 2010, 06:32 PM	#3
lamsv diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010	I am leaning towards the sealed enclosure, if only because of its smaller size (Q45, for a big car, does not have a big trunk). Another question. I have a couple options for amps to power the sub. Both amps have a bass boost centered at 45hz. Will this hurt or help the low end response... or just create a bump in the frequency curve that is not good for the overall sound?

5th September 2010, 04:37 PM	#5
lamsv diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2010	I have a couple 1lb bags of Acousta-Stuf that I will be using. I think I will be going through with the design at this point. From all I've read and heard, this design should work well in my car. Thanks for the input!