I feel a tad dodgy/ghetto with my addition to the DIY community, the other day i got given a massive sheet of 18mm MDF that ive ripped up rough as guts over the past couple nights.
i modelled the cab in hornresp with an Alpine Type S car sub (12 inch) in Jbells SS15 and simulated some decent usable results.
i will post up some pics of my rough as anything freehand box over the next day or two and will also find myself a chance to really crank it up to see how it sounds, but already at low volume, and barely sealed up, gaps everywhere, it sounds quite deep with a distinct peak at about the 50hz level where it was buzzing all my outer paneling on the house. (it was outside at this point)
im buying some "vice" branded PL gule today, so will be pulling it apart to seal it all up, and will be taking pics along the way.
its bigger than i expected it to be, but not so big its unmanageable like my dual15 box is currently.
i cant wait till im able to build the proper pair out of PLY, with proper straight and square cuts.
very impressed Jbell.
i modelled the cab in hornresp with an Alpine Type S car sub (12 inch) in Jbells SS15 and simulated some decent usable results.
i will post up some pics of my rough as anything freehand box over the next day or two and will also find myself a chance to really crank it up to see how it sounds, but already at low volume, and barely sealed up, gaps everywhere, it sounds quite deep with a distinct peak at about the 50hz level where it was buzzing all my outer paneling on the house. (it was outside at this point)
im buying some "vice" branded PL gule today, so will be pulling it apart to seal it all up, and will be taking pics along the way.
its bigger than i expected it to be, but not so big its unmanageable like my dual15 box is currently.
i cant wait till im able to build the proper pair out of PLY, with proper straight and square cuts.
very impressed Jbell.
well i must say! 
!!!WoW!!!
this is my "dodgy" one, with the technically way "wrong" speaker and severely underpowered.
seriously,BASS im in heaven! if i had found this site before i built my sub cab, i would have saved so much time and effort and heartache
the SS15, for a single sheet, "relatively" small cab, and with an underpowered car sub in it, already sounds like it has way way more bass and projection that my twin 15 PA sub horn!
one thing is for sure, i need to get myself an active inline sub controller for my currently inactive 4x300w amp for it to run my soon to be 4 SS15 cabs.
here is one happy customer.
!!!WoW!!! this is my "dodgy" one, with the technically way "wrong" speaker and severely underpowered.
seriously,
BASS im in heaven! if i had found this site before i built my sub cab, i would have saved so much time and effort and heartache the SS15, for a single sheet, "relatively" small cab, and with an underpowered car sub in it, already sounds like it has way way more bass and projection that my twin 15 PA sub horn!
one thing is for sure, i need to get myself an active inline sub controller for my currently inactive 4x300w amp for it to run my soon to be 4 SS15 cabs.
here is one happy customer.
Well I'm sure you know, you can't always trust the marketing claims. Unless they get very specific with the claims, I'm sure that "peak" number is calculated and not actually measured, then again I'm sure it is also calculated in half space not full space, and at a high(ish) frequency.....
Oh, I'm pretty certain of that
. I'm just interested in finding out if anyone has had the opportunity to compare it to one of the "commercial" sub solutions, like the EV I mentioned.
Why? My brother is looking for new subs for the night-club he manages. He's leaning towards 4 of those EVs. I've been trying to convince him that building the subs may produce better results (my cousin, who owns the club, is great at joinery, so building a subwoofer box should not be that great a challenge).
I think unless there are space constraints, or the club plays big hair band rock exclusively you should be going with some bigger stuff that goes lower. It's not too hard to get to 140dB down to ~30-35hz with 4 big boxes and an amp or too. Might be overkill but if your gonna build don't go lite on extension or headroom.
EV MTL-1X, 95dB at 50hz, 98dB at 60hz.
After loooking at the data sheet for the MTL-1 I'm sure the plot is for just one. I bet the response fills in as you line them up side by side. Anyone have drawings and specs for the drivers? It shouldn't be very dificult to DIY a better clone...
http://electro-voice.com/sitefiles/downloads/534861.pdf
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most of what I run into is single 18 jbl, or dual 18 bagend. (for church's that actually have subs)
A TH eats their lunch for praise band.... Not much of an exact comparison, and I know it's apples and oranges.
A 45hz TH vs a bagend elf... yea, not a good comparison.
This is one of those things that you actually have to do it yourself to believe it, trying to convince someone usually doesn't work....
That's where the singlesheet thing works and makes believers. Buy a $100 kappa pro 15lf2, a $30 sheet of ply and a tube of pl.
Get out the deck screws and make something ugly... and then crank it up. The sound sells itself. Then once convinced, you can then figure out your extension and spl goals, and choose the appropriate design. (put it in the night club and change the direction of the speaker, and watch the faces as the bass 'moves'..... that's priceless)
Surely your brother trusts you enough to do an ugly box just to see?
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Ehh....for 2 18's stuffed into a horn sub that is pretty much the same external dimms as my single 18 loaded TH-18 sub, I don't think you're going to get very deep bass. Path length must not be very much at all.... its -10db at 46hz....at 35hz it must be down a lot!
I'm pretty sure the Dynacord Cobra's use the same driver that is in the MTL boxes....I've heard the Dynacords on numerous occasions...not bad at all!
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LOL - I'm tempted to just build one and show him
. Pity about the current cost of the Kappalite though.
The 18" TH design does look interesting though, particularly with its 35 Hz extension. No actual measurements posted yet, unfortunately.
I'd tell you he was impressed with the little DFD'd POC#2 with the 12" Dayton pro audio driver. It was able to keep up quite easily with one of the CV 15" 3-ways I'm fixing for him. Actually had to turn the gain down a notch.
However, when thinking of dropping major $$ on a club system, it is an uphill battle to convince them to consider DIY instead, particularly when some of the "DIY" examples here have been so bad...
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Your box has a mouth ~1/3 the size, 4 of the MTL boxes coupled should get pretty low. Think of them as some sort of ~30hz array of 8 cubo 18" boxes.
How about those comparitive measurements of your stuff - earn the right to talk some smack...
:
"The numbers are for one driver not two... "
I was lazy, I just created one driver with the same parameters as two.
I also ran it in Hornresp with two drivers, but with S3=3400 and S4=3600. It's about 700L (about the size of a LAB 12), and 105dB/2.83V/35hz. You could build it as a pair of singles and stack them.
If you can make it bigger than a LAB 12 you can pick up another 3dB:
I was lazy, I just created one driver with the same parameters as two.
I also ran it in Hornresp with two drivers, but with S3=3400 and S4=3600. It's about 700L (about the size of a LAB 12), and 105dB/2.83V/35hz. You could build it as a pair of singles and stack them.
If you can make it bigger than a LAB 12 you can pick up another 3dB:
This one is much smaller (410L or two 205L), 3dB down around 37hz, 105dB around 50hz.
{
a1 = 1000e-4; |Area at throat (cm^2)
a2 = 1700e-4; |Area at rear of driver (cm^2)
a3 = 2200e-4; |Area at front of driver (cm^2)
a4 = 2400e-4; |Area at mouth (cm^2)
l1 = 18e-2; |Distance from throat to rear of driver (cm)
l2 = 175e-2; |Line distance from rear of driver to front of driver (cm)
l3 = 20e-2; |Distance from front of driver to mouth (cm)
Sd=1745cm2
fs=42Hz
Qes=0.54
Qms=6.73
Vas=232L
Re=2.52ohm
Le=2.49mH
I like the 4015, they were only about $140 each the last time I bought a dozen.
{
a1 = 1000e-4; |Area at throat (cm^2)
a2 = 1700e-4; |Area at rear of driver (cm^2)
a3 = 2200e-4; |Area at front of driver (cm^2)
a4 = 2400e-4; |Area at mouth (cm^2)
l1 = 18e-2; |Distance from throat to rear of driver (cm)
l2 = 175e-2; |Line distance from rear of driver to front of driver (cm)
l3 = 20e-2; |Distance from front of driver to mouth (cm)
Sd=1745cm2
fs=42Hz
Qes=0.54
Qms=6.73
Vas=232L
Re=2.52ohm
Le=2.49mH
I like the 4015, they were only about $140 each the last time I bought a dozen.
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who's talking major $$ ?? that's kinda the DIY point.
a pair of powered qsc K12's over a quad of ss15's with a single crown or qsc amp w/crossover would run $2500-$3000.
I know my brother did a bar with all EV... !@#$ was that place loud. To be perfectly honest, it sucked. It was so loud everywhere, that you couldn't tell what the sound system sounded like.
The TH's that give you some bass directionality, coupled with a reasonable top with good pattern allows you to have club level in one place, and still be able to talk elsewhere... THAT is the key to a club system.