Single sheet TH challenge

Djim:

Looks like you're using WinISD. I'd like to experiment with modeling filters in TH's. Are you modeling your examples with vented enclosures? (I didn't see TH as an option)
 

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Hi Crescendo,

Yes, I use WinISD for quick excursion analyses for setting out filters (all tools for that are provided in WinISD). If you want more accuracy try 6th order bandpass and try to align the impedance and excursion to that of the TH in HornResp. But basreflex is most time close enough for TH’s with an 1/4WL above 30Hz.
 
As requested, here's links to the plans. (is there a moderator way to add this info the post1???)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...th-challenge-singlesheet_2_2010_aug18_dwg.pdf

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...challenge-2011_mar12_ss15_profile_revised.pdf

These come from post 74 and post 622. Kappa pro 15lf2 works in place of the (now) more expensive 3015lf, as do several other drivers.

Thanks to all who contributed.

i tried to sim the P Audio C15-600 in the SS15. not sure if my results are correct, but it looks nice. Group delay looks nice. Xmax is less for the C15 compared to the Kappa pro 15lf.
 
WOW... SO I've been away from the forum and I had to catch up from like page 30 to now page 105, BTW Congrats on your post 1000 JBELL, truly amazing work and all this to come to the conclusion that your original design was spot on... Congratulations...

I came here, obviously because of the price of the 3015lf shot through the roof and 2 of my subs are still using the JBL speaker, so before I upgraded to the new super expensive 3015lf, I wanted to see what alternatives you guys have come up with... There was a seller on ebay selling each for @ $200 each,

http://cgi.ebay.com/EMINENCE-KAPPAL...259?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5dc567bb

One question for Flip C that someone else asked and I did not see an answer, are those tops on the truss DIY also, or are they commercial?

One note, I have been running my subs with my qsc 2402, bridged Mono at 4 ohms for 2 parallel SS15s (1,200 watts per sub) one notch on the amp before clipping mixer main vol at 0 db I am happy to report no problems, no blown speakers (KNOCK ON WOOD) ...

I do seem to find a lot of distortion from full blast on the mixer, than running it at -10db on the mixer... The bass is not as clean but louder... another not, I never correctly 'broke in' my subs.. by the time i read about breaking in, I had already used them in my first event...

My main question here, is, should I replace my JBLs with two new 3015s or buy 4 new subs of the same brand/model?
 
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A friend requested my help in acquiring a PA setup, and while I'm hardly an expert, this looks like very good value for money. The savings on the Bill Fitzmaurice plans are also much appreciated.

Can anyone provide a link to some "tops" suitable for use with these cabinets? I don't need anything too enormous - a single 12" driver should be more than adequate - and I'm on a minimal budget.
 
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A friend requested my help in acquiring a PA setup, and while I'm hardly an expert, this looks like very good value for money. The savings on the Bill Fitzmaurice plans are also much appreciated.

Can anyone provide a link to some "tops" suitable for use with these cabinets? I don't need anything too enormous - a single 12" driver should be more than adequate - and I'm on a minimal budget.

Here's a link for what I use for tops.... and if you'd like me to burn a cd of plans and charge you... I could.... ;)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge-26.html#post2397092
(joking, would never charge for anything)

Fhperez:
Don't fix what's not broke -- but I do remember you saying that the jbl's were about a db or so lower in output vs the 3015lf's.

My2c, since I know you push things hard. You can get 4015lf's for about the same $200 mark. (google for it) and they have a higher aes rating, 4"vc instead of 3" vc, a tougher cone and put out a bit more output than the 3015lf's -- at the expense of a few more pounds. Where you aren't installing these 30' in the air, the extra few pounds, vs the peace of mind knowing you have a higher power rating driver is probably worth it.
 
Here's a link for what I use for tops.... and if you'd like me to burn a cd of plans and charge you... I could.... ;)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge-26.html#post2397092
(joking, would never charge for anything)


That link doesn't work, but I managed to find it after sifting through the thread for the appropriate post ID.

This looks to be a rather elegant design - the flat surfaces look quite easy to build, and 130dB from a single $65 driver is pretty impressive. I'm curious about the D220TI, though; I'm a bit fuzzy on the math, but a D220ti doesn't seem to have the required output to match the midrange and woofer with a 1.9khz crossover point. Maybe I'm missing something?
 
Fhperez:
Don't fix what's not broke -- but I do remember you saying that the jbl's were about a db or so lower in output vs the 3015lf's.

My2c, since I know you push things hard. You can get 4015lf's for about the same $200 mark. (google for it) and they have a higher aes rating, 4"vc instead of 3" vc, a tougher cone and put out a bit more output than the 3015lf's -- at the expense of a few more pounds. Where you aren't installing these 30' in the air, the extra few pounds, vs the peace of mind knowing you have a higher power rating driver is probably worth it.

Thanks, I think I will be buying those, and no I am not installing these 30' in the air, although I may want to get into doing that... I just don't know how to get started doing that.. :)
 
That link doesn't work, but I managed to find it after sifting through the thread for the appropriate post ID.

This looks to be a rather elegant design - the flat surfaces look quite easy to build, and 130dB from a single $65 driver is pretty impressive. I'm curious about the D220TI, though; I'm a bit fuzzy on the math, but a D220ti doesn't seem to have the required output to match the midrange and woofer with a 1.9khz crossover point. Maybe I'm missing something?

As far as I can tell, 130 dB is achieved using 4 of these cabinets. The line for the single cabinet is fainter and may be harder to see on some old lcd screens ( I speak from experience).

Regards, Ben
 
As far as I can tell, 130 dB is achieved using 4 of these cabinets. The line for the single cabinet is fainter and may be harder to see on some old lcd screens ( I speak from experience).

Regards, Ben

I have a fairly recent LCD monitor - maybe I did not calibrate it correctly? Time to go find the gamma controls....

In any case, I'm not too worried about max SPL; to be honest, I doubt I'll even need the second. 120dB down to 50hz for about $110 including plywood is pretty bonkers.
 
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The hole in the baffle is for cone clearance, the horn throat is much smaller.

Here is another way to do it (Peavey FH1):

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


The motorboard has a rabbet around the perimeter to keep the cone from slapping during high excursion, the throat opening is in the center.

I sometimes add an extra gasket too, depends on the x-max of the driver.
 
Howdie Horniez :)

I got a moment from my "Red Dawn" type lifestyle to pop in.
I'm freeing up two 3015lf for J bells Mini's or something like it.
Since the PA will probably stay in Florida I'm taking my electric drum rig to the next level so it can double as a karaoke or small band system.
Any notes on the mini's would be appreciated and a question after the update.

Update. I've lost track of how long it's been but the 6 furysubs are still cranking 5 nights a week. Not one blown driver as yet but one defective braid that had to be resoldered. I don't know if the compression I added to the box has made the difference or not, but they are certainly much more durable than the NEXO type subs. The clubs jukebox sometimes goes from rock and dance to that god awfull "My life will always suck so I'll go kill somebody" ghetto rap. Sometimes I just let it rip to annoy the people instead of dropping the bass. It will give you a headache or make you sick before the song is half done.
I'd venture to say that tapped horns are like Mesa Rectifiers because they "Bloom" as they get louder.

Given the longevity of the furysubs, which were inspired by Jbells original big beasts, and are similar to the JB mini: I'm wondering if adding some compression by using a smaller throat opening would be helpfull to the Mini.
I would do it by adding the extra 1/2 inch or so to the bottom of the cabinet and simply adding another sheet below. Exactly the way djk has shown on the peavey pic above. This is how the fury subs were done.

Anybody in Denver and points near there..... Give me a shout cuz that's where I'm Heading.