After my last post I realized that I need to get these measured up now so I know what I have to start planning with.....if they are even worth it.
These will be either a third sub with 2 drivers or my 3rd and 4th subs in the room. I just want to use them for smoothing and I always wanted to try Tapped Horns.
To answer your question though, my current subs in the front of the room have an f3 or 29hz.
These will be either a third sub with 2 drivers or my 3rd and 4th subs in the room. I just want to use them for smoothing and I always wanted to try Tapped Horns.
To answer your question though, my current subs in the front of the room have an f3 or 29hz.
I could offer an explanation on what I think is going on, but it would mostly be incomplete, so I'd let someone else take a stab at it. As far as I know, the series coil works exactly as it does in any crossover.
I just thought it would be interesting to see, since we've seen the question asked "does it really do what it does in the simulations", to which I can probably say "No, not really."
Dr Dyna ,
Yeah the series coil didnt seem to have much smoothing effect for you at all ... It did however seem to smooth the phase at the very extreme bottom end, not sure if that means much, or if it is at all useful ..... I wonder if an outdoors measurement would also show the same insignificant amount of effect in the desired range?
Do you suppose the sharp dips centered around 30hz , 60 and 75hz are caused by room modes or are they just actual features of the horn's response? They are deeper dips than what show in the sim...
Its possible that the lack of cone compensation could contribute to those deepened dips at 60 and 75hz, or perhaps even ceiling height or a nearby wall causing a cancellation .... The deepened "saddle" at 30hz seems to defy the typical trend of a smoothed out or flattened saddle with sim vs measurement results ...
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I'm reasonably sure they are at least partially room modes. If I scoot them around the dips move a little bit, because the cabinet is large and changing the orientation when they're in the corner makes the distance between the mouth and the nearest surfaces in each direction change by ~2 feet. One of these days I'll build a better room that occupies more space in the basement
I've been wanting to do an outdoor measurement, but I need to get up the ambition to do it..they are quite heavy.
With the MiniDSP though, it's quite a bit better.
Attachments
OMG! almost ONE HUNDRED AND NINETY PAGES! I've NEVER seen a message string come close to that anywhere anytime BUT this was a good one. I'm gonna go for the v2 with the 3015LF. Just hate that the price of neo has bumped that up so much. Anyway, I am curious about the HS12 tops but it has been a much more difficult message string to find. If someone would kindly point me in the right direction I'd be so ever thankful. I have a pair of Jack 12s from Bill Fitzmaurice that I built but I'd love to see what the design on those are. To everyone who contributed NICE WORK. To Jim, way to go man, what a great topic!
Hi YogiNC,
You obviously haven't seen this one then
.http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/100392-beyond-ariel.html#post1188648
Kind regards,
David
Still yet to make sawdust, but constantly thinking about the build in anticipation of getting started in 2 week's time...
Speculation, what would be gained/lost by going wider?
Approximately 630mm / 25" external - 605mm / 24" internal
Why? If i'm building two or more at a time, then starting with ripping a sheet in half lengthways and cutting to size from there would make more sense. It'd still work out to be 1 sheet per cab, but a bigger box and more usable offcuts with every strip the same width.
Has anyone considered this, and does the idea make sense?
Speculation, what would be gained/lost by going wider?
Approximately 630mm / 25" external - 605mm / 24" internal
Why? If i'm building two or more at a time, then starting with ripping a sheet in half lengthways and cutting to size from there would make more sense. It'd still work out to be 1 sheet per cab, but a bigger box and more usable offcuts with every strip the same width.
Has anyone considered this, and does the idea make sense?
The ingenious bit of the SS15 layout is the fact that by making the cab narrower the there is enough material to make the path longer.
Jbells initial cutlist is in Post 39 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge-4.html#post2265677
There is not a lot of spare timber in a SS15. If you rip all the timber to half width to increase the width of the cab, how you are going to get it all out of one sheet?
The 24" dimension is used for the front to back dim of the cabinet this maximises the cutting yield for the sides and top bottom panels.
Jbells initial cutlist is in Post 39 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/170771-single-sheet-th-challenge-4.html#post2265677
There is not a lot of spare timber in a SS15. If you rip all the timber to half width to increase the width of the cab, how you are going to get it all out of one sheet?
The 24" dimension is used for the front to back dim of the cabinet this maximises the cutting yield for the sides and top bottom panels.
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I think I misled myself whilst struggling with Cutlist's clunky interface... forgot to include a couple of panels... oops!
Regardless the intention won't be to get a single sub out of a single sheet but builD multiple boxes at once. I realise that strays from the SS challenge but I'm still sold on the design for its performance potential (especially specific to my application) than the fact it's frugal on wood.
So yeah, 24" strips for the build, with a bit of additional bracing and other bits and pieces to come from an extra sheet which (if it's all at 24" wide) can be used for more boxes. Oh and it reduces chance of disaster if a few cuts are bodged!
Keeping it all 24" wide will make things much easier for a n00b builder, so the question still stands - how will the extra width affect performance?
Regardless the intention won't be to get a single sub out of a single sheet but builD multiple boxes at once. I realise that strays from the SS challenge but I'm still sold on the design for its performance potential (especially specific to my application) than the fact it's frugal on wood.
So yeah, 24" strips for the build, with a bit of additional bracing and other bits and pieces to come from an extra sheet which (if it's all at 24" wide) can be used for more boxes. Oh and it reduces chance of disaster if a few cuts are bodged!
Keeping it all 24" wide will make things much easier for a n00b builder, so the question still stands - how will the extra width affect performance?
The original dimensions are 22" x 24" x 30".
Going to 25" wide won't make any appreciable sonic difference, it will just waste wood.
If you want a better sounding cabinet, easier to build, use 3/4" since you don't seem to mind wasting wood
.Art
sawdust!
after a few (maybe 8-10) hours in the workshop, I am pretty close to assembling a pair of SS15 with EPA's mod to suit my Delta 12LFA drivers...
Here's one cut up, sitting on the trolley which it'll eventually be strapped to for portable battery-powered sound:
MDF is a hassle to work with, but since this is just an experiment I'll be happy to rebuild with ply if/when necessary.
Just need to cut the driver hole, and hopefully it'll go together easily!
More pics and details to come later, it's 1:30am and I have to get this together for a street party in 2 day's time.
after a few (maybe 8-10) hours in the workshop, I am pretty close to assembling a pair of SS15 with EPA's mod to suit my Delta 12LFA drivers...
Here's one cut up, sitting on the trolley which it'll eventually be strapped to for portable battery-powered sound:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
MDF is a hassle to work with, but since this is just an experiment I'll be happy to rebuild with ply if/when necessary.
Just need to cut the driver hole, and hopefully it'll go together easily!
More pics and details to come later, it's 1:30am and I have to get this together for a street party in 2 day's time.
Didn't get it built for Reclaim The Lanes, but probably better than I can spend some time to get it right... this is what I've ended up with so far:
Rushed build, slightly bodgy but it's a trial so far... have played with them a bit (much to my housemate's annoyance) and they make some noise!
When the mouth braces are fitted I'll take them outside to measure and evaluate... for now, the novelty of being loud and shaking the place is good enough for me.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rushed build, slightly bodgy but it's a trial so far... have played with them a bit (much to my housemate's annoyance) and they make some noise!
When the mouth braces are fitted I'll take them outside to measure and evaluate... for now, the novelty of being loud and shaking the place is good enough for me.
