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Old 20th August 2010, 03:04 PM   #81
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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Originally Posted by Ed LaFontaine View Post
This is a great effort in balancing the use of materials with results. Thanks to all.

Would I lose "style points" if I chose to make the side panels (or the whole thing) from 3/4" stock?

Would I fall out of the category for using corner blocks (3/4" x-section) throughout?...even if I robbed them from the scrap pile?
I don't see why 5/8" or 3/4" for that matter would hurt. If you change the thickness of the inner boards, preserve the first couple flares cross sectional area, and allow the thickness of the plywood to encroach into the larger areas. Use PL polyurethane construction adhesive only. You won't need corner blocks, PL expands into the pores of the wood and seals better than anything else I've seen. You will literally separate the plys of the wood before you make the joint fail.
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Old 20th August 2010, 06:28 PM   #82
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Hi martinsson,

Just for you the drawing with notes in mm. :-) Hope you'll check my numbers.

Regards,
Attached Files
File Type: pdf singlesheet_2_mm_2010_Aug20_dwg.pdf (44.0 KB, 1082 views)
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Last edited by tb46; 20th August 2010 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 20th August 2010, 06:59 PM   #83
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tb46, thank you ever so much, this i did not expect : )

I will be sure to give it a good long look at within short.

I like the design alot, the fact that it is compact and high preforming will appeal to the pro's, and it will not hurt ordinary people either, this combined with the well thought out economics and simplicity of assembly makes it a winner in my book this far, and it makes me want to know more about it.

My initial concerns are the previously stated cabinet flexing, especially in the mouth area, in this perticular regard i like my own desing better.

other then this, marvelous !
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Old 20th August 2010, 08:53 PM   #84
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell View Post
Use PL polyurethane construction adhesive only. You will literally separate the plys of the wood before you make the joint fail.
Absolutely, screws are something you use a few of as clamps till it sets. I switched to it back when it first came out decades ago and the local band/PA stuff I (re)built were like Timex watches (and may still be for all I know) except for the ones that fell off moving vehicles or from a great height, though even then the seams remained intact, shearing/bursting some distance from them. The downside is that what I used was fairly noxious if used in-doors and literally a pain to get off skin. Hope current versions are more user friendly.

GM
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Old 20th August 2010, 11:24 PM   #85
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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martinsson:
What I assumed was cabinet flex on my initial 28v readings, was soggy ground and rain robbing 2db. The next days tests were as expected on my driveway. Also a steel grill will prevent any vibration at the mouth.

GM:
The current PL doesn't stink, but once on your hands -- is there for the duration.
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Old 21st August 2010, 12:13 AM   #86
GM is offline GM  United States
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Bummer, other than the soft furry kind in Winter, I hate wearing gloves.
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Old 21st August 2010, 05:23 AM   #87
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I know this goes against the intention of this design, but do think this could be made to play lower using more wood?

Also might of missed it, but did was this built from 15 or 18mm wood?

Cheers
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Old 21st August 2010, 06:40 AM   #88
djk is offline djk
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"this could be made to play lower using more wood?"

Of course, how low do you want to go?

"was this built from 15 or 18mm wood?"

12.7mm (1/2").
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Old 21st August 2010, 09:44 AM   #89
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30-35hz would be good!
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Old 21st August 2010, 12:32 PM   #90
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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could one get 20 to 25Hz from three 8*4 boards for two speakers? i.e. 1.5boards each. And fit through a 2'8" (812mm) doorway?
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