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Old 31st March 2011, 06:39 AM   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4pyros View Post
Mids tomorrow. Burn in starts Friday. tests Monday !!!! YES!!!! I never made speakers before thanks for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Andy

Sweeeet! result numbers in the thread monday night for us all to digest!
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Old 31st March 2011, 06:57 AM   #832
NEO Dan is offline NEO Dan  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4pyros View Post
We call them "T" nuts, these are six point, and the proper way to apply them;
Hurricane nuts are just a different type, the barbs are on the barrel:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 31st March 2011, 10:44 AM   #833
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Quote:
Hurricane nuts are just a different type, the barbs are on the barrel:
Dan; How well do thay hold? Looks like thay could strip easy. Andy
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Old 31st March 2011, 01:45 PM   #834
NEO Dan is offline NEO Dan  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4pyros View Post
Dan; How well do thay hold? Looks like thay could strip easy. Andy
The holding power may be greater than T nuts because the barrel is longer, however they have the same limitations when it comes to installation. Generally for best results the hole should be tight to the barrel and I always put some adhesive on them to help keep them from getting knocked loose. And just like T nuts if you cross-thread and get stuck - your screwed
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Old 31st March 2011, 02:06 PM   #835
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I did use hurricanes for the loudspeaker, but not for attachment of the baffle.
Used brass inserts, cause I had a blind hole situation, no access to backside.
Also can't use T or Hurricane styles when hole purposely drilled at an angle.
Tool access is very difficult if you bolt the baffle to its cleats with no angle.

T-Nuts can't be driven into some hardwood, points break or bend every time.
Hurricanes and inserts can. And my cleats were impossibly hard oak 1x1 strip.
Don't think I would elect for oak cleats again. Oak required too much effort.

Last edited by kenpeter; 31st March 2011 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 31st March 2011, 05:40 PM   #836
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Two suggestions:

These work much better than T or Hurricane Nuts: McMaster-Carr

Rotating the inserts 1/8 turn gives you knuckle room
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Old 31st March 2011, 05:54 PM   #837
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You missing the knuckle room problem, not the speaker.
Bolting a removable baffle into the enclosure is always
going to involve a few locations at inside 2 way corners.

Flange on that insert would make it very hard to use at
the required angle. And would it be pull out proof in blind
hole that can only be inserted from the front? Lose the
flange, and maybe you have something...
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Old 31st March 2011, 06:22 PM   #838
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The flange "crushes" into the ply ... no problem. My post was to address speaker mounting, not as a reply to your post, sorry.
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Last edited by Don Snyder; 31st March 2011 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 1st April 2011, 03:24 PM   #839
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KenPeter: You can buy hex wrenches with a "ball" end. They allow you to turn a hex screw when you can't get straight on.
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Old 1st April 2011, 04:50 PM   #840
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I couldn't use a ball end for the first turn to break one loose.
Not talking small amount of force. Possibly shellac adheres with the
lacquer on my brass furniture bolts? Getting them in is much easier
than getting them back out later. If I had used steel, I would not
fear so much to damage the bolts.

You can't really see the ones up inside where I am having difficulty,
but they are the same style as those visible on the front. The old
DeltaPro12 baffle is now SigmaPro18A2, just barely fits with much
internal rasping required to clear. No logo to display on the 18, so
bolt pattern for that larger loudspeaker was rotated more sensibly.
Its the baffle to cleat bolts that are the clearance problem.
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Last edited by kenpeter; 1st April 2011 at 05:00 PM.
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