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Old 19th August 2010, 03:32 PM   #71
soho54 is offline soho54  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell View Post
I read some place on designing FLH, that you need to take into consideration the 'horn bubble' in front of the mouth. Wonder if there is something to that, and that's why my TH's always measure a little lower than I think.
You don't have to worry about the "horn bubble" as HR does this end correction for you.

Last edited by soho54; 19th August 2010 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 19th August 2010, 07:16 PM   #72
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Jim:

Where is the best placement for these handles on this new design? Dayton PH114 Plastic Pocket Handle 4-Sided | Parts-Express.com Also what are you thinking for a grill?
I was thinking of building some type of frame and using pet screen.

As soon as I get healed up a bit, I will crank one of these out. I got the poster board today, so I can make a template of the layout.
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Old 20th August 2010, 03:57 AM   #73
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Here is a pic of the template that I finished tonight. Hope I will be healed up enough to start on these sometime next week.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 20th August 2010, 04:20 AM   #74
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Default Post #63,64,70

Hi jbell,

I took your notes and "refreshed" the drawing from Post #63. The Hornresp simulation does not change sufficiently to warrant spending any more time on it. I added a few more dimensions to this drawing, and between your drawing in Post #39 and this there should be enough data for anyone who wants to build one. The builder has to be a little careful with the dimensions after cutting v. the drawing dimensions (saw cuts being about 1/8"), but small differences should not make much of a difference. You squeezed a lot of box out of one sheet of plywood. Well done.

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Old 20th August 2010, 07:12 AM   #75
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It doesn't add up for me...
[IMG][IMG]http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...cture-199a.jpg[/IMG][/IMG]

When I measure from back to front like in the photo above it doesn't add up. I will try to explain the best I can. Here goes...

I start at the back and come in a 1/2" and then measure 6" across to the 13.5" panel. Then add a 1/2" for the 13.5" panel. So we are at 7" so far and will add 5.25 to get to the 8" panel. Now 12.25" + 1/2"(8" panel thickness) =12.75". 12.75" + 4.75"= 17.5" to the 6" panel. Plus 1/2" (for 6" panel) gets us to 18" . And adding 4.5" with our 18" gets us to 22.50" to the front of the 13" front panel. It should be 24".

Either I need a good long break(very very very possible) or Lucy got some splaining to do!

Last edited by mike james 533; 20th August 2010 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 20th August 2010, 09:51 AM   #76
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Darn inches... why... metric please (the SI-system you know)
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Old 20th August 2010, 10:03 AM   #77
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Originally Posted by martinsson View Post
Darn inches... why... metric please (the SI-system you know)
I think the SI (Systeme International) is based on cgs.
The metric system is based on mks. Stick with metres and kilograms not centimetres and grams. And use multipliers in multiples of 10^3 or 10^-3
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Old 20th August 2010, 12:23 PM   #78
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tb46 View Post
Hi jbell,

I took your notes and "refreshed" the drawing from Post #63. The Hornresp simulation does not change sufficiently to warrant spending any more time on it. I added a few more dimensions to this drawing, and between your drawing in Post #39 and this there should be enough data for anyone who wants to build one. The builder has to be a little careful with the dimensions after cutting v. the drawing dimensions (saw cuts being about 1/8"), but small differences should not make much of a difference. You squeezed a lot of box out of one sheet of plywood. Well done.

Regards,
THANK YOU oliver:
Yes, this looks very much like what I built, right down to the 8" board having the matching 27 degree cut. (the cut between the baffle and 8" board was the last cut I made)

Yes, careful cuts with a table saw are the only way I know of to get all this cut out. I literally have a pair of 2" triangles and sawdust left over.

The way I cut it out:
1. Cut a 30x48 off of one end of the ply.
2. Set fence at 21" and cut (3) 48x21, leaving a 2.5" strip for braces.
3. set fence at 23 15/16" (24" center blade) and rip one 21x48 and 30x48 into top/bottom/side/side
4. cut out the other parts, leaving the 27degree cut between baffle/8" board for last.

It really cuts out fast, and assembles fast. PL glue takes care of any of the angles that are not exactly 90 degrees.
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Old 20th August 2010, 01:41 PM   #79
tb46 is offline tb46  United States
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Default Post #75

Hi mike james 533,

Take a look at the dimensions in the drawing in Post #74, that may help. It's more important to get the edges sealed right than exactly where they are, but it helps to get a good starting point.

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Old 20th August 2010, 02:20 PM   #80
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This is a great effort in balancing the use of materials with results. Thanks to all.

Would I lose "style points" if I chose to make the side panels (or the whole thing) from 3/4" stock?

Would I fall out of the category for using corner blocks (3/4" x-section) throughout?...even if I robbed them from the scrap pile?
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