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Old 27th February 2011, 01:22 PM   #491
tsloms is offline tsloms  United States
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How does the PL Premium compare to the Gorilla Glue polyurethane glue used in the test? I've used PL several times where I'm looking to fill a gap such as a tapped horn when the second side goes on. These smallish gaps would never be perfectly filled by a standard PVA glue.
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Old 27th February 2011, 01:29 PM   #492
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsloms View Post
How does the PL Premium compare to the Gorilla Glue polyurethane glue used in the test? I've used PL several times where I'm looking to fill a gap such as a tapped horn when the second side goes on. These smallish gaps would never be perfectly filled by a standard PVA glue.
my 2c

PL and gorilla glue are 2 completely different animals. I'd never use gorilla glue for building a SS15, only the PL.

In fact due to the "loose fitting joints" in the ss15, if you don't have PL available to you, the next best thing is probably just general construction adhesive (like for subfloors) in a caulking style tube for all of the interior panel to interior panel connections.
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Old 27th February 2011, 01:33 PM   #493
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Quote:
general construction adhesive (like for subfloors)
liquid nails?
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Old 27th February 2011, 01:45 PM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell View Post
my 2c

PL and gorilla glue are 2 completely different animals. I'd never use gorilla glue for building a SS15, only the PL.

In fact due to the "loose fitting joints" in the ss15, if you don't have PL available to you, the next best thing is probably just general construction adhesive (like for subfloors) in a caulking style tube for all of the interior panel to interior panel connections.
I used construction adhesive for four bass cabinets I later recycled (3/4" Baltic Birch).
Unlike cabinets built with yellow wood glue, when breaking down the cabinets the construction adhesive mostly split on the glue line, rather than tear off the wood. In that case, I was glad I used the easy break down stuff.

Considering your previous statement about the amount of deflection you noticed on the SS15 front panel using 1/2" wood, I would not feel confident with construction glue lasting well on 1/2" construction, unless lots of screws were used.
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Old 27th February 2011, 01:55 PM   #495
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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I really don't have any other suggestion than PL for assembling a ss15. But if you don't have it, you have to find some kind of glue that'll fill gaps.

yea if you use construction adhesive, you'll want to leave all of the screws in place for obvious reasons.
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Old 27th February 2011, 02:53 PM   #496
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Default Construction vs regular PL

I have tried both. I screwed and glued, but the screws are only to keep everything aligned during building.


Construction glue bought locally

for building my T36 and first pair of Omnitop 15
(all 12 mm ply)


PL from Leland Crookes / Speakerhardware

for Stadium horns and 4 more Omnitops (btw. attempting to mod them in the style of Screamerusa)
(the Stadium horns are 19mm, the OT again 12)

The construction foam really expanded tremendously, must have tripled in volume. The PL expansion was less noticeable.
The construction foam dried to a hard yet elastic / rubbery finish.
The PL dried much harder and less flexible.

Both rip plywood layers off when I did my tests. Both were a bitch to get off my hands. Both did a good job. The PL from the USA was way cheaper (under half the price of the construction glue I found here), aside from that I struggle to declare a winner...

Regards, Ben

Edit: I call it construction foam, because, when cut with a stanley knife, it was full of tiny bubbles....

Last edited by salzburgsoundsystem; 27th February 2011 at 03:12 PM. Reason: See Edit...
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Old 27th February 2011, 10:35 PM   #497
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Originally Posted by 4pyros View Post
liquid nails?
Be carefull which one you use. The subfloor stuff never completely hardens. It's designed to stay flexible.
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Old 3rd March 2011, 11:36 AM   #498
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Thumbs up HS12 top

Hi there i have been looking at this and other treads for a while now,i have fall in lov the SS15 [i have pic of SS15]and HS12, i have suggestion for the HS12 were the components is concern the Selenium D2500Ti has a better sound than D220Ti and what about the B&C ME10 H90+V60 horn it seems to have very good dispersion and the Kappa lite 3012HO for a over all higher output enclosure (just my two cents)

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Old 3rd March 2011, 12:26 PM   #499
jbell is offline jbell  United States
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Originally Posted by k parker View Post
Hi there i have been looking at this and other treads for a while now,i have fall in lov the SS15 [i have pic of SS15]and HS12, i have suggestion for the HS12 were the components is concern the Selenium D2500Ti has a better sound than D220Ti and what about the B&C ME10 H90+V60 horn it seems to have very good dispersion and the Kappa lite 3012HO for a over all higher output enclosure (just my two cents)

Hey, thanks for the thoughts. The hs12 components were chosen primarily for cost reasons, and yes there are many good upgrades that work well in that cabinet.

The dayton pa310 driver is a great upgrade and provides more 80-100hz that the beta12a-2, and gives basically the same power handling as the 3012ho at half the price.

Yes the neo 2500ti sounds better in the typical 40x90 horn than the 220ti, but the low expansion dayton waveguide seems to mitigate that. The 220ti/dayton is a reasonably nice sound.

This being said, my 'upgraded' drivers that I like for the HS12 are the pa310/2500ti. (keeping in mind the 2500ti is a bit louder than the 220ti)

If you want to make these cabinets lighter DL2512/2500ti puts it on about a 6.5lb diet.
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Old 3rd March 2011, 10:44 PM   #500
FlipC is offline FlipC  United States
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on subject of glue.
I use Titebond 2 and Liquid Nails. I bead out the TB and use a brush to get an even coating. Then use screws (or even brad nails) to hold it all together while drying.
The Liquid Nails is for any gaps AFTER the TB is used.

And example in the SS15 would be the corner reflector.
It is glued. Dried. Filled with expanding foam and then the gaps are filled with Liquid Nails.

Side note about Gorilla Glue.
It has to have wet surfaces in order to activated and adhere. It also expands a great deal. Enough to ware it can push pieces apart.
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