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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Austin, TX
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Just looking for something efficient with average SPL capability. I listen to classic rock, pop jazz, hard rock. So I'm looking for something with a bit of a kick, tight.
I don't listen to any rap and hardly any r&b. Have about 150-200 hundred watts to feed it. I've seen the auto-tuba and am probably looking for something similar. This will be going into the back of a Toyota 4runner. Thanks for any suggestions! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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Eminence LAB 12"?
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Jim J. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Austin, TX
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Sorry, I should have mentioned this is a budget deal. The LAB 12 has a great rep, but the $140 driver is about $100 more than I want to spend. :lol:
Thanks though! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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if $40 is really your budget, performance of the sub you want to build is not your priority. I'm not saying the Lab12 is the proper driver for you either.
Can you be a little clearer with your goals? If you mention cost as top concern, leave this forum and hit your local flea markets on Saturday morning instead. Cabin-gain is your friend, so all you need is a sealed cab with response down to 50 or so outside which will give you flat to 20 in the car. Sealed boxes are the easiest as you won't have to be concerned about LF rolloff to protect for over-excursion. Ported cabs are more efficient, but require a line-level crossover with a rolloff as the box unloads the driver below the box resonance. Tapped Horn cabs are even more space efficient, but are very sensitive to over-excursion if not properly managed by a crossover. Can we assume you will not be using a crossover that has a highpass (rolloff) filter in it? If not, a sealed cab is safest for you. And by budget, how's your woodworking? Got a table saw to construct the box that'll sit behind the rear seat or are you going to get those pre-fab boxes and try to pick a driver to match?
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Think out of the box
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Austin, TX
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No, I'm just looking for horn sub applications. My DIY skills are fine.
I've had ported, I've had sealed. Now I want horn. I'll try out the auto tuba if there aren't any cost/performance comparable DIY projects to choose from. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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I was in your shoes about 10 months ago.
i listen to rock/metal wanted something clean and efficient. Ended up building Cowan audio's hornsub jr. Horn Subwoofer It takes up alot of room so measure before you build but i used two dual DS10 subs i got off amazon and a 100watt amp i found in a junk box. measured output was 27watts RMS per channel max output was 129db. It was ok at first when i built it but it had alot of air leaks and made one tone. so i took it apart got a caunk gun and some silicone window sealer and sealed the entire thing up. that put too much pressure on the speakers so my amp kept tripping when i turned it up but it sounded ALOT better so then i did the math on one of those website things to port it. ![]() ![]() ill upload one of it in the jeep if you want.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Bill Fitzmaurice's Autotuba. The MCM driver can be had for $25 on sale and sheet of 1/2" plywood is not that expensive.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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And you'd likely only need a fraction of that 200W
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Jim J. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Austin, TX
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Bacon, that looks great - probably a lot more than I need though. lol
Glowplug - you're so right, assuming I go with the AutoTuba or a similar high efficiency enclosure. The 200 watt amp is just something I happen to already have. I used to use it to power my rear speakers back in the car stereo days. I also have a 700 watt amp, but realize I don't need that much power unless I'm going with sealed subs (and even then...). Davy.... I was looking to build this myself. But out of curiosity,, could you post here (or PM me) with a price including shipping to Austin, TX 78728? Thanks, -Eddie |
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