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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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I know there's some cabinet designing whizzes out there and I was hoping you guys could help me slam out a quick design for the Ascendent Audio Avalanche that I recently acquired.
I will be driving this sub with the following amp: The Apex Junior Subwoofer Amp I am wanting a sealed design, probably front firing (someone talked me out of down firing by saying it would wreck my floor), and mostly for HT use. I would like to have the option to use it in my 2 channel set up as well so I'm guessing this is another one of those "I want a musical sub" threads. Both my HT room and my 2 channel room are not huge so glass shattering output is not a priority, overall sound quality is. Thanks in advance for any help. Here are the T/S specs: Fs 15.7Hz Qms 3.5 Qes .334 Qts .305 Vas 300.6L Re 3.2ohms (coils in series) Znom 4ohms (coils in series) Xmax 27mm Sd 748cm^2 Mms 269g Vd 4.04L RMS 800w Le 2.4mH Mounting info Cutout Diameter 14.125” Mounting Depth 7.875” Diameter 15.5” Read more: FS: 2 15" Ascendant Audio Avalache - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi,
Sealed, anything larger than 2ft^3. Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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That's all I need??? Just bigger than 2 ft.^3?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sounds like it, but don't go too big, as you get to a point of diminishing returns...
__________________
"Throwing parts at a failure is like throwing sponges at a rainstorm." - Enzo My setup: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tang-band.html
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi,
Just some easy net numbers on sonotube enclosures (you did say "slam" and "quick" :-) ) : Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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Alright, I guess I'll shoot for around 3 ft^3 (minus whatever I loose for the space the amp/driver/bracing use). That should keep my overall volume over 2 ft^3 but not too terribly large.
From my VERY limited understanding of the world of subwoofers, it sounds like exact volume is not SUPER important for a sealed design; correct? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi,
I would shoot for something around 4ft^3 net. That will give you some room to play with the results, 2ft^3 net is about the minimum. The attached Hornresp SPL compares 2 to 4.4 ft^3. Regards,
__________________
Oliver |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Berlin
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Alright, a little more follow up here. I did some more reading and finally decided I should at least try to use WinISD and here's what I've found. The manufacturer of this driver stated that it was designed to be used in a sealed design as small as 2.2 ft^3 and that is just about what WinISD told me as well. I read several other places that this sub is happy around 4 ft^3; just wondering if I'm doing any harm going bigger than the 2.2 ft^3.
Next question, read somewhere else that "for music a Q of about .7 is perfect." I really have no idea what that means and would appreciate some clarification on that point. I don't know what Q measures and the other didn't say why a Q of .7 was perfect for music. Last question, the nuts and bolts of construction. I've read conflicting opinions on lining the intererior of the box; I think I'm planning on using the polyfill stuff but just want to confirm that I'm on the right track. Also, I'm assuming for a sealed sub that you really want it sealed. Does that mean I should use something like latex caulk to seal the interior seams? Also, do I want to use anything around the driver and the amp when I mount them? Thanks in advance for all the help. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
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Hi,
All else being equal, the bigger a sealed box the lower the Qtc. Often manufacturers will reduce the box volume until they get a slight low frequency bump, or in other words a Qtc of .8 to .9.. Many listeners will prefer the gentler roll-off of a Qtc .5 box. Building a slightly larger box will allow you to tune the Q through the addition of damping material and wooden blocks, etc..... Speaker Box Calculations As to the nuts and bolts: polyfill (or fiberglass) is fine, caulking interior doesn't hurt (but the glue joint should be sufficient), and the speaker and amp should be sealed (including holes in connectors), e.g.: foam weather stripping (silicone caulk). Regards,
__________________
Oliver Last edited by tb46; 21st July 2010 at 08:42 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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I opted for a ported enclosure (around 4 ft^3, tuned to 27 or so). I love it, but I have a behringer EP1500 providing the power. These subs are not that efficient. You may want to consider a more powerful amp.
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