What enclosure for those subs?

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Hi!

I am thinking of ordering a pair of those subs.
I am planning on using the with my coming Mar-Kel70's and having 2 different boxes to get "stereo-bass", if it's something to have at all 😀
If not, it could be just one box.

What box would you recommend? They shall be 100% music, no movie or such. Just pure stereo music.

Niklas
 

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Understandable that you'd like to add some bass.

I'd download winISD, and try modelling different enclosures. There's a lot of discussion on sealed vs vented cabinets. I personally prefer sealed cabinets, for their ability to surpress excursion at really low frequencies. However, vented boxes, while using a larger enclosure, allow you to get more extension from the driver. If you're familiar with both, you can make your own decision.
 
With Qts high at 0.6+ they will have to go in a sealed box.

The calculations for sealed box wont be as good as the vented ones. And there's a guy (called SDX) on the swedish forum called Minhembio.com - Mötesplatsen för hembio- och hifi-entusiaster who has bought 12 of these and he says 40-60l vented box and a 3" diameter port.

This is 60l and made to(???) 25hz
2qixyx4.jpg


A 60l sealed box will have a much straighter curve but f3 at ~35hz. I think i want to have f3 atleast a little lower than 30 if it's possible.

By the way, i was thinking of powering those subs (yes, i will have two and build one box for each i think) with the XTZ Sub-Amp 1
XTZ | Sound in balance

I wonder if it's possible to have one left and one right channel of bass with that amplifier. If not i'll stick to one box.
And the sub/-s need to be able to play quite high in frequency, i'd bet. Since i suppose the Mar-Kel70's wont be able to play loud and low in frequency maybe the subs have to go up to 120-150hz or something.

As you see i am totally new to this. What do you think?
 
he says 40-60l vented box and a 3" diameter port.

This is 60l and made to(???) 25hz

A 60l sealed box will have a much straighter curve but f3 at ~35hz. I think i want to have f3 atleast a little lower than 30 if it's possible.

You need also to look at the power handling curve. It will show you that the box is far too big for the driver and has very poor power handling around 50-60Hz, which is bad because that is where a lot of bass energy is.

I say again that this driver is not suited to a vented box. You friend may be using them maybe he doesn't have a good benchmark to realise they are not performing that well, or maybe because he is using 12 of them he doesn't notice their deficiencies.
 
Hi Rullknuffs,All

Agree with the last two replies: A better choice would be if choosing the 12" version of RSW-1060, i.e. the RSW-1260 instead, with IMO, having more suitable T/S parameters for a ported box:

b:magnify:
 

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Well. The reason why i picked this driver is because it's so good damn cheap. 295kr for one (the Peerless SLS 10" costs around 800-900).
I don't need a vented box. I'll go with whatever is the best.
The 12" version cost more than double of one 10" :S
And wont a 12" driver lose some quality at higher frequencies?

sreten: How do you mean?
 
..Well. The reason why i picked this driver is because it's so good damn cheap. 295kr for one (the Peerless SLS 10" costs around 800-900).
I don't need a vented box. I'll go with whatever is the best.
The 12" version cost more than double of one 10" :S..

There is obviously a reason why the inexpensive driver is sold as cheap 😱 as if the goal is flat unassisted FR for an application of a closed box; you need a lot of space: 🙂

The Peerless SLS driver plays IMO in another SQ-wise league.

b
 

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Bjorno: That picture tells me nothing at all.
I've been talking to Fynda and they are selling out the last drivers. I'd bet they have ~10 left at the moment.
But, we say it like this. I don't need to play super-deep. 30hz is okay for me.

Hi Rullknuffs,

Sorry if my picture is of no use.😱 :no: The picture is a simple comparison between the RSW1060 and the Peerless SLS driver using basic rookie fundamental T/S parameters only, in flat FR closed boxes.🙂

You'll never strictly reach 30 Hz (in 2PI space) with either of the drivers in a closed box, but fairly close for the RSW1060 (=34 Hz) if you can copy with a optimal 265 L box.

A larger or smaller box volume will end up with a higher f-3dB.

You might reach 30 Hz in your room, if you place the box close to a PI/2 wall and use EQ to correct the FR or follow sretens advise to smooth out the room response.

b
 
Skulle du kunna ta det på svenska så jag kanske förstår något av det? 😉

Well. I think my XTZ 99 w8.16 plays deep enough but i want to be able to play a little louder and don't having to lower the volume on tracks like Sade - Morning Bird. I also want a little more quality of the bass. w8.16 is still a low-budget subwoofer.
 
Love those RSW1060, marvelous bang for the buck (45 dollar).
BassBox 6 Pro, told me to go for a 52,3 liter box tuned to 25Hz.
With portdimension 77x351mm, f3 is 20Hz.
And so did Basta.
Some Rockwool just behind the woofer.
Two of them play nice and very potential down to 20Hz in my system (room), but i built four boxes just to turn down the woofervolumesetting and get real low distortion. A friend of mine bought 16. Active crossover at 80Hz.
Tell us about your experiences, when you´r readdy. 😉
 
Hej Ragnwald!

So you think i should buy a pair of those?
Do you use them for music or movies? As i said i want musicbass, not that deep earthshaking bass that you can see on the richterscale.
Anyways, maybe it's RSW-1060 or nothing at all? I guess i'd have to pay around 700-800kr instead of 295 to get something that outperforms those. Right?
And i'll have to make them play quite high in frequency. Feels like my EL70's wont like heavy-metal at loud volumes :S Is RSW-1060 still a good thing to go for?
 
I use them mostly for musiclistening, classic, jazz and rock. But it´s when you watch movies, you feel the real floor shaking effect.🙂
Example; they seam to messure not worse than Seas new L26Roy that cost ten times as much.
 
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